Roads End Naturalist

Exploring the natural world as we wander at the end of the road


In Our Happy Place

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National parks are the best idea we ever had. Absolutely American, absolutely democratic, they reflect us at our best rather than our worst.

~Wallace Stegner

Melissa had another of the museum ‘s amazing educator workshops to Yellowstone last month. This year, we decided to go out a week early to enjoy the park, hang out with friends, and scout areas for her workshop prior to the arrival of her participants and co-leaders. It was a week well-spent and included an awesome backpacking trip with friends to some backcountry patrol cabins.

Bison were everywhere in Lamar Valley this spring

On our first night in the park, we went out for a few hours and soaked it all in and were amazed at the number of Bison in the green valley floor of Lamar Valley. The next day we met our friends (both NPS employees) and backpacked to the Lower Slough patrol cabin. Ivan is the backcountry office manager for the park and inspected all the backcountry campsites along our route. It was a fairy easy hike up the Slough Creek valley with little elevation gain (good for my bad back/legs). The weather was perfect and spring wildflowers were dotting the landscape in abundance.

We were excited to find several patches of Fairy Slippers (Calypso bulbosa). This orchid goes by many other common names (Venus’ Slipper, Calypso Orchid, and Angel Slipper).
The first cabin was log construction and built in 1916. Park staff using the cabins must restock any firewood used (we did not use any) and leave it in as good or better condition than they found it. We were impressed by its cleanliness and beautiful location.
The view from the Lower Slough cabin porch. A marshy area with a few Bison, over 20 Sandhill Cranes, and a hunting Coyote. Oddly, a group of the cranes escorted the Coyote all over the area as it hunted.
The sunset on our first night of the backpacking trip was quintessential Yellowstone
We hiked another 5 miles the next day to the next cabin, Elk Tongue. A more modern, but smaller, facility with another incredible view. Both cabins had outhouses, necessitating a flashlight when you visited after dark as this is prime grizzly country.
Melissa cooking up some oatmael pancakes on the huge griddle at the cabin

We spent 3 nights in the backcountry with our friends and it was glorious. Wildlife sightings included a couple of Black Bears, some Moose, the cranes and Coyote, and a Peregrine Falcon. Melissa also got a quick glimpse of a wolf chasing a Moose. After that, we headed to our lodging in Gardiner for a couple of nights, venturing out into the park each day.

A couple of young bull Moose along Soda Butte Creek in the northeastern part of the park.
This cow Moose and calf were seen several times during our stay, always within a few hundred yards of the Soda Butte picnic area.
The epitome of gangly (and cute)

One of the best things about this time of year in Yellowstone is the abundance of baby animals. It is a tough place to be a baby with so many predators out and about searching for food, and different species have different strategies for protecting their young. The mama Moose keeps a keen eye out for any danger, and will not hesitate to attack a threat (a point I kept trying to make to people out of their cars and approaching her). On a drive down the road to the Slough Creek campground, Melissa spotted a Pronghorn doe with a youngster on a ridge away from the road. As we slowed, the baby dropped down behind a shrub. From our angle, we could no longer see it. This is typical behavior of these swiftest of mammals. Young will hide among vegetation while the mother wanders off to feed, returning every few hours to nurse them. The babies behavior and color allow them to blend into the landscape very well. Years ago, I almost stepped on one before seeing it. It remained motionless, flattened to the ground as I walked away. And, in a true act of love and protection, mother Pronghorns lick the droppings from their fawns’ rear end as a way to reduce scent that might attract predators.

We drove a small distance so we had a better angle and could see the baby Pronghorn’s head up behind the shrub
Mother Pronghorns can be quite protective of their young. This doe meandered closer to the road, munching away on vegetation. She ended up quite close to our car as if to say, “I am watching you…stay in your car and leave my baby alone”. She eventually went over the ridge leaving her baby until the next feeding

There have been a lot of Grizzly sightings reported this year so anytime we hiked, we carried bear spray and were paying attention to our surroundings. On one trail, we came across some fairly fresh Grizzly scat…that really makes you alert!

Grizzly scat

Driving into Lamar from the northeast one day, we saw a group of people at a pullout looking down toward Soda Butte Creek. They told us a Grizzly sow and cub (from the previous year) had just crossed the creek and had disappeared behind the ridge. We stopped at the next pullout and a group of people, chaperones and young students, were headed back to the parking lot saying “there are two Grizzlies headed this way”. I commend the leaders of this group for doing the right thing when they saw the bears – move everyone to safety and don’t try to get close for a photo!! In just a couple of minutes, the bears crossed the road.

The Grizzly sow had a cub from last year with her as she crossed the road and headed up through the sagebrush.
I saw an opening in the sage as the bears climbed to the top of the ridge and focused my attention there hoping for a photo (these pics are shot with a 500 mm lens and teleconverter and are heavily cropped)
The cub paused for a second, paw in the air, and glanced back down the ridge at the throng of viewers

As always in Lamar Valley, the Bison are the real stars of the megafauna, especially with so many “red dogs” (young calves) frolicking or sprawled out asleep in the grass. But we also witnessed a sad and yet fascinating Bison behavior – acknowledging the death of a member of the herd.

–A dead Bison laying next to the road (no doubt a roadkill from the night before) attracts a lot of attention from others in the herd. Rangers hauled the carcass off later that day to avoid chaos along the road due to the presence of scavengers and crowds of visitors

We saw several Pronghorn fawns during our first week in the park. Pronghorns frequently have twins, and these two were both curious and cautious, never getting far from each other or their mother.

The most unusual wildlife encounter we had was with a bird, an “attack grouse”.

–This Dusky Grouse had an attitude and aggressively attacked people and cars that passed through its territory

On one trip down the Slough Creek dirt road, a car in front of us had its flashers on and was moving very slowly. We then saw a Dusky Grouse right next to the vehicle. These birds can be fairly tame so it wasn’t a huge surprise. But as we drove by, the grouse went under our car so I had to stop. Melissa got out to see if it came out and indeed it did, right at her. For the next few minutes she and the grouse did a dance with the grouse actually pecking at her a few times. Finally, she got away and back into the car. We saw this behavior a few other times as we drove down that road over the next day or two. Finally, someone wth the park put out two orange highway cones and a sign that read “Slow, congested area ahead”. Close enough, I guess:)

After several days, I drove Melissa to Bozeman to meet her teacher workshop group. I then headed back to the park for a few days on my own. My next post will provide some of those highlights.

Comments

11 responses to “In Our Happy Place”

  1. Kim Smith Avatar

    Sounds like a great trip! Thanks for the tour of this magnificent national park.

    1. roadsendnaturalist Avatar

      It always is a magical time when you go to Yellowstone!

  2. Stringernc Avatar

    Such a wonderful and beautiful outing. Loved your article and supporting pictures! Thank you ~

  3. Ann Walter-Fromson Avatar
    Ann Walter-Fromson

    It’s wonderful to visit Yellowstone vicariously through your posts. I love the sunset and the wildlife photos!

  4. Melva Fager Okun Avatar
    Melva Fager Okun

    Dear Mike, Thank you for your beautiful photographs and great description of your amazing trip (again!!!)to Yellowstone. You lead a blessed life. On a day where it feels like all is wrong about America, it is great to be reminded of what is still great about America. For this I am grateful.

    Sincerely, Melva

    >

    1. roadsendnaturalist Avatar

      Thank you, Melva. Nature does have a way of helping us to refocus on what is good in our world.

  5. David Hord Avatar
    David Hord

    Well done!

  6. Arizona Kate Avatar

    Beautiful country! Here in Arizona we have stayed in quite a few Forest Service cabins. They are always a lot of fun. Lovely pictures.Thank you for sharing.

    1. roadsendnaturalist Avatar

      Couldn’t agree more Kate. Never stayed in a Forest Service cabin, but hope to soon.

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Roads End Naturalist

Exploring the natural world as we wander at the end of the road

Copyright Mike Dunn and Melissa Dowland