Roads End Naturalist

Exploring the natural world as we wander at the end of the road


Sharing Yellowstone

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Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent in the office or mowing your lawn.

~Jack Kerouac

Two years ago we started planning a summer vacation trip to Yellowstone with Melissa’s brother’s family. Melissa made reservations over a year ago and we planned on dong a trip itinerary similar to what we have done with educators for so many years. Then something changed…we bought a house in Gardiner and moved! The trip was still on but we decided to stay the first couple of nights in our home and then travel the park with them and stay in park lodging to get the full experience. So, a couple of weeks ago the family arrived, shopped for food on the way to Gardiner and we began the adventure. Here are some of the highlights of our family vacation.

We started at the park headquarters in Mammoth where the nephews could pick up their junior ranger booklets and get a quick overview of the park at the visitor center. As has been the case for as long as I can remember, a pair of great horned owls was nesting in a tree next to one of the houses in historic Fort Yellowstone. A small crowd of onlookers cued us to the presence of one of the birds. It turned out to be one of two fledglings from the nest.

A great horned owl fledgling flew from a tree to the roof of one of the houses while we watched. Check out those talons! (click photos to enlarge)
The squawking of a robin with a nest nearby gave away the presence of one of the adult owls in a nearby tree.

Melissa had planned a number of outings and the first couple of days were spent in the northern range looking for wildlife and doing a couple of hikes.

A Clark’s nutcracker gave us a nice pose at Undine Falls.
We drove up to see our friends in Silver Gate and this red fox put on a nice show along the roadside (thankfully not begging for human food as many do these days due to careless human behavior).

One of our favorite hikes (and apparently everyone else’s since it is now very tough to get a parking space at the trailhead) is Trout Lake. The short hike stars steep but then you reach the top and look out over an absolutely gorgeous scene of a lake surrounded by beautiful mountains. The cutthroat trout are beginning to spawn at the creek feeding the lake and several ducks were gracing the still waters with their beauty.

A drake Barrow’s goldeneye showing off his purple head
This female goldeneye seemed to have no fear and kept coming closer as I sat by the shore. She repeatedly dove and was obviously catching something in the shallows for a meal. This species feeds on a variety of aquatic invertebrates, crustaceans, and small amounts of seeds and other plant material. I am guessing she was feeding on caddisfly larvae and fairy shrimp, both of which occurred in large numbers in the lake.

We stayed two nights at the aptly named Rough Rider cabins at Roosevelt (always an interesting experience). We had to run back to the house after our first night to get something and along the way we encountered several bear jams including a courting pair of black bears feeding along the roadside.

Female black bear of the courting pair. The male was a cinnamon colored bear.

We saw another, smaller black bear start digging into a rotten log and it quickly was swarmed by angry ants. After swiping many of the ants off its face, the bear hurried off.

Young black bear with ants all over its head

The next day we hiked a wonderful 4-mile trail at Canyon. The trail passes through varied habitats and gives you a much less crowded view of some of the spectacular scenery of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.

View looking down the canyon below the Lower Falls

After our hike we headed toward Old Faithful, passing through Hayden Valley. I always like stopping at some of the creeks feeding into the river to look for waterfowl. Plus, this year, the Wapiti wolf pack has a den a couple of miles out from the road near Alum Creek. We had seen them a few days before the family arrived, but it is a long view and heat wave interference makes the viewing less than ideal,. But this trip proved much different as the wolves had made a kill just across the river from the road. None were visible when we first stopped, but one soon came out and thrilled the many onlookers. Though the lighting was harsh, it was a great opportunity for observing the wolves. As we watched, one wolf came down to the river for a drink, then walked back into the trees, then back out. It laid down for several minutes as a couple of other wolves appeared. One was a large collared wolf, perhaps one of the alphas. We stayed quite a while watching and enjoying this somewhat rare opportunity for close views.

This wolf walked along the shore for several minutes and came to the river’s edge a couple of times for a drink. It also jumped in at one point either after some ducks or a fish (observers later reported online that one of the wolves caught a fish).
This large collared wolf came in to the scene and briefly chased a brave coyote that sneaked in and found a scrap of meat out in the flats.
This black wolf came into the trees and apparently fed for a bit, then swam the river and crossed the road, presumably heading back to the den a couple of miles away.
This is the main wolf we observed and here it is walking along the shoreline and occasionally glancing over to keep an eye on the crowd gathered across the river.

After the excellent wolf watching, we continued on to Old Faithful. As has happened so often in the past, Old Faithful erupted shortly after we arrived. I’ve been spoiled over the years by getting to view this iconic geyser early in the morning with relatively few other people around. That was not the case on this afternoon as the seats surrounding Old Faithful were full of hundreds of happy tourists. Melissa had managed to get our group a couple of rooms in the historic portion of the Inn (perhaps my all-time favorite building) and we were pleasantly surprised when we got our room assignments on the third floor. It turns out our room was a corner room with an extra special perk…we could sit in the room and view Old Faithful erupting! This may be the only room in the old portion of the Inn with this excellent view.

We had windows looking out at Old Faithful and another set looking down the Upper Geyser Basin. Melissa was in the rocking chair to my left had an even clearer view of the geyser.

I am not a fan of the huge crowds you typically encounter in the thermal basins, but that room added a really nice touch to this trip. One of my favorite thermal areas is Fountain Paint Pots. The short trail passes by all four types of thermal features – geysers, fumaroles (steam vents), hot springs, and mud pots. I have a weakness for the mud pots and cannot walk by them without stopping and trying to capture some of their interesting and often bizarre shapes with my camera.

Mud pot bubble bursting
“How the Earth was formed” mud pot bubble

Melissa wanted to check out the Fairy Falls trail on this trip to see if it was worth taking her teacher group on the following week. It is about a 3 mile round trip to the 200 foot tall falls. You start on an old freight road that goes by the overlook for Grand Prismatic Spring, the largest hot spring in the park and third largest in the world. The overlook is worth the hike as it gives you a great perspective on the size (~370 feet in diameter and 121 feet deep) and colors of this incredible thermal feature. Our neighbor works for the park and he told us this week that recently a bison was walking along the edge of Grand Prismatic and broke through the crust and fell into the spring and died in the 160 degree water. This is a rare example of a misstep by an animal in a thermal area and a cautionary tale for everyone visiting the park.

View of Grad Prismatic from the overlook along the Fairy Falls Trail

After the overlook, much of the trail is through a young lodgepole pine forest without much to see and we had one particularly challenging issue in the forest – the mosquitoes were the worst I have ever encountered in Yellowstone. Once we reached the falls, the breeze kept the pesky biters at bay for the most part.

Fairy Falls is a spectacular waterfall near Grand Prismatic.

After a couple of nights at the Inn, we headed to our last stop, Colter Bay in Grand Teton National Park. The highlight for me was a 10-mile raft trip through the park on the Snake River. I had arranged a morning trip in hopes of seeing some moose but we missed out on the big ungulates. However, we did enjoy spotting some bald eagles and waterfowl, and plenty of incredible scenery.

Melissa on the raft with the Tetons in the background

Her brother’s family stayed two nights at Colter Bay but we headed home after one night so Melissa could get ready for her teacher group arriving in two days. These photos are just a small sampling of what we experienced on our trip and I think everyone left loving this special place. When asked about their highlights, most thought the time spent with the wolves in Hayden was something extra special. The trip was a good reminder of the power and magic of Yellowstone and why we love sharing this place we are lucky enough to now call home.

Comments

7 responses to “Sharing Yellowstone”

  1. ADRIENNE C PALMA Avatar
    ADRIENNE C PALMA

    Loved reading about your adventure! Amazing photos! Thanks for sharing.

    1. roadsendnaturalist Avatar

      Thank you, Adrienne. It was a fun trip.

  2. Elise Strevel Avatar
    Elise Strevel

    THANK YOU for sharing this wonderful adventure! Big Love and Peace, Elise

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  3. Ko van der Vlist Avatar
    Ko van der Vlist

    Beautifull as always!KoVerstuurd vanaf mijn iPad

  4. mary sonis Avatar
    mary sonis

    A wonderful tour of my favorite place in the world! Thank you, for the writing and the gorgeous photos. Mary S

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Roads End Naturalist

Exploring the natural world as we wander at the end of the road

Copyright Mike Dunn and Melissa Dowland