Moving doesn’t change who you are. It only changes the view outside your window.

~Rachel Hollis

Most of you probably already know about our coming big change (we put it up on FaceBook a few weeks ago). But, if you don’t, here it is. Melissa and I bought a house in Gardiner, Montana, the north entrance to our favorite place, Yellowstone National Park. We have thought about it for a long time but the opportunity was never there, until this summer. Melissa found a place for sale online right before we went out in June and we managed to take a walk-through, and…well, we move in May. It will be hard to leave our beautiful home in the woods, our friends, her family in VA, and the many special places we love in NC and the East, but, as I said in my FB post, “if not now, when?”

We drove out in early November to start some projects and make contacts with folks. It took 4 days to drive out, truck camping along most of the route. We bypassed most of our usual dispersed camping sites in the National Forests because of hunting seasons and the resulting greater number of people out camping in those areas. Instead, we stayed at some state parks along the way which were virtually empty this time of year. A quick drive through one of our favorite wildlife refuges, Loess Bluffs NWR, gave us a break from the hours on the interstates and a nice view of a pair of eagles discussing changes in their neighborhood.

The house sits at the base of a travertine cliff overlooking the town (some willows across the road block out the view of most of the buildings). But it will be a big change from here – we have neighbors! I can talk to them from our deck. We will live in a town! Gardiner has a population of about 700 people plus the couple of million that come through in the peak visitation months. And our local fauna (in our very small yard) will be quite different than what we see now.

The previous owners installed an electric fence behind the house to protect their plantings (mostly non-native plants it seems) from the deer and elk. The right side of the house is protected only by having the shrubs encased in welded wire fencing (a common practice for anyone with shrubs or trees they want to protect in the town or nearby park headquarters in Mammoth). So, it is a bit ironic that we will go from an acre or so enclosed in a deer fence with 13 acres additional to a tiny plot of rocky terrain partially protected by electric fencing, wire cages and some rabbit fencing (Mountain Cottontails appear to be abundant). And I probably won’t mind seeing the megafauna eating the plants outside our side window (even Bison occasionally graze on the “lawn” in winter as they pass through town).

And though I love watching the birds, insects, and other critters from our current home’s windows… as the quote implies, a new view to enjoy awaits us. Our living room windows look out across town to the park lands beyond the Yellowstone River. Two mountains loom above the southern horizon as viewed from our house – Sepulcher Mountain and Electric Peak. Sepulcher is 9,642 ft high and is in Wyoming. Electric Peak is the tallest mountain in the Gallatin Range of Montana at 10,969 ft. In addition to being close to the state line, our new home is only a couple of miles from the 45h parallel of latitude, halfway between the Equator and the North Pole.

Though Gardiner seems like a busy little town in summer, it lies in a vast landscape of sagebrush and sagebrush mixed grasslands. The surrounding area is lower in elevation and drier than much of the nearby park lands, making it ideal winter grazing habitat for ungulates such as Bison, elk, deer, and Pronghorn. When viewed from the surrounding hillsides, Gardiner is a small strip of human presence in a sea of open wildlife habitat.

Most of our days at the house were spent measuring to see what will fit, getting the basics of electricity, water, etc. set up, starting some renovation projects like painting kitchen cabinets, and learning about what we can and can not get in our new hometown. Many things require an hour or 1.5 hour drive to Livingston or Bozemen. But, amidst all the tasks, the abundant windows did provide some distractions, especially at sunrise and sunset.

We did get some snow a couple of the days and we finally made an afternoon trip into the park toward the end of our stay. This time of year does spoil you with so few visitors out in the park. At one point, we were the only car in the entirety of Lamar Valley, something that hasn’t happened for me since my early pre-wolf introduction trips of the 1980’s. We saw a few Bison herds, a couple of nice groups of elk, and Melissa spotted a beautiful Red Fox.lounging on a snow-covered boulder close to the road as we headed back to town.

She was driving and the fox was on my side of the road. We stopped and I grabbed a couple of pics with the 500mm (I should have grabbed her camera and zoom lens) as the fox stared off the the edge of the rock. It soon stood up and then nose-dived into the snow bringing up a small rodent of some sort which was quickly dispatched.

A few minutes outside of town is a great spot to view Bighorn Sheep this time of year. They come down from the hgh elevations of summer and are herding up in time for the rut which happens from November through January. We spent an hour late one day admiring some of the many nice rams in this herd as they checked out each other and the available females.

On our last afternoon, Melissa wanted to go for a hike up the road. We walked a hundred yards or so up behind our house and walked off into the National Forest lands. It looks like a great place to explore and watch for wildlife. I also wanted to get up behind the house and take a closer look at the cliff that looms above our new place (I did ask all the neighbors if a rock had ever hit their house….so far, no). It is a pretty steep incline but we followed a well-used game trail up to the base of the cliff and walked along the ditch line that had been put in years ago to catch falling rock (comforting). There was lots of scat from deer, elk, rabbits, marmots, and unknown critters (so much to learn). Then Melissa called me over to take a look at something she had found under a ledge on the cliff face.

It was a carcass of what looked like a Pronghorn. This is not a typical spot for a Pronghorn to hang out. She sent a pic of it to our friends that are wildlife experts and they think it could be a Mountain Lion cache! I guess a trail camera may be needed here. This is what is so surprising about this place…we will soon live in a town and there are pigeons, starlings, and house sparrows in the yard and on the cliff behind the house. But there are also elk and deer in the yard and maybe a Mountain Lion killed a Pronghorn and stashed it up under a ledge in the cliff behind our house!

The proxinity to the park, the abundant wildlife, the community of people (luckily, we have great neighbors and good friends a short walk away). All of this is still sort of swirling around in our heads as we prepare to make this jump into a new, yet familiar world. So many things we will miss about North Carolina and Chatham County. So many things to learn in this new place (important stuff like what caterpillars will be out there for gosh sakes?). And, in some ways, we still go back and forth…are we crazy to upend our rather comfortable lives for a place we do love but that has many uncertainties in terms of daily living? Well, the new place “spoke to us” on the last morning as we were getting ready to pack up the truck. We saw the wolf research plane circling across the river inside the park so Melissa started peering though our spotting scope (soon to be a designated piece of living room furniture). She soon spotted WOLVES! Yes, that’s right, we saw a pack of at least 11 wolves inside Yellowstone from our living room window.

When we got home I remembered something that happened on my very first educator workshop in Yellowstone almost thirty years ago. We were in Lamar Valley standing in the freezing cold hoping to see wolves. The Druid Peak pack had a den in the trees above the road and we had learned of their presence from some wolf biologists we had met earlier. Some teachers had borrowed the van keys to get inside and warm up for a bit. We were about 75 yards from where the vans were parked. After spending several minutes in the van, they started walking back to the rest of us when we heard wolves howling, including the higher-pitched notes of wolf puppies. It was an emotional moment for everyone and I saw the teachers that had been at the van jumping for joy and hugging each other in their excitement. When they got back, I asked for the keys and the one person carrying them had apparently dropped them in all the commotion. They had walked along the side of the road back to our group, so we would have to search all along a sagebrush edged road looking for a set of keys. I was upset and a little panicked as I wasn’t sure how long it would take for the rental company to get us an extra set of keys from Bozemen if we couldn’t find them. An elderly Japanese wildlife photographer had been standing with our group and overheard what had happened. He joined us as we spread out along the road searching for the keys. I guess he could tell I was getting even more nervous as we searched. He leaned close and gently whispered “If it is meant to be, it will be”. I found the keys lying under a sagebrush right after that! And I now realize he might not have been talking about just those keys.