• Beartooth Bound

    The beauty and charm of the wilderness are his for the asking, for the edges of the wilderness lie close beside the beaten roads of the present travel.

    ~Teddy Roosevelt

    There is never enough time. Though the days are incredibly long, I still feel the pressure to move, to see more, to drive to another spot in hopes of seeing something spectacular for my group. And, of course, they must see the prime attractions of the park – Old Faithful, the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, the incredible thermal features. But those areas can be so crowded, so hectic. That is one of the reasons I love the northern section of the park so much…the expansive views and smaller crowds, plus the incredible wildlife, make it easier to feel connected to the park and a to gain a sense of getting away from it all. This is also true as you pass out the northeast entrance of the park and head out along the Beartooth Highway, considered by many to be America’s most scenic roadway.

    Pilot and Index
    Pilot and Index Peaks along the Beartooth Highway (click photos to enlarge)

    I had originally planned a trip to the Beartooths on the last full day of our trip, but a variety of factors caused me to move up that plan and we headed north a few days early. A quick stop for lunch at a scenic pullout gave us time to admire the view, taking in two prominent glacial-carved peaks – Pilot and Index. As we gained elevation we passed the beautiful aquatic mirror known as Beartooth Lake. But as we climbed higher, I could see the top of the mountain was shrouded in clouds. Hoping it would clear, we kept driving.

    Beartooths socked in
    Socked in at Beartooth Pass

    But it only got thicker and more gray, to the point where we could see only a few feet in any direction, not the glorious vistas or wildlife viewing I had hoped for. We turned around near the top and returned to Silver Gate.

    A couple of days later, we joined my friend, Dan Hartman, for a short hike starting part way up the road toward the Beartooths. One of his favorite wildlife areas is an aspen grove near the road that has many species of nesting birds.

    Hairy Woodpecker leaving nest
    Hairy Woodpecker leaving nest

    Quaking Aspen are not only beautiful trees, they also provide excellent habitat for cavity-nesting birds. After spending just a few minutes in this grove, we had spotted the nests of several species including Hairy Woodpecker, Northern Flicker, Red-naped Sapsucker, House Wren, and Mountain Bluebird. Although I could have spent several hours in this productive area, I decided to head back up to the Beartooths since we were part-way there and my group had not yet seen the top of the mountain. Dan agreed to go with us, so we headed up the highway following his car.

    Grizzly siblings
    Grizzly Bears along the Beartooth Highway

    We had barely gone 100 yards when he stopped, pulling off the highway, and jumping out of the car with his camera. As I pulled up I was stunned to see two young grizzlies down over the bank. I grabbed my camera, which still had my telephoto on it from the aspen grove, and jumped out next to my car. We all took photos of the bears, heads down, actively feeding. Another car pulled up and both bears paused momentarily and looked their way.

    Grizzly eating dandelion 1
    Grizzly eating Dandelion

    As I watched the bears I noticed they were mainly feeding on one of the more common roadside plants – Dandelions. Looking at the photos back home, almost every bear bite captured by my camera was a Dandelion flower or leaf. The only other food item I detected was some Horsetail, another common plant common along the roadside.

    Grizzly Bear standing up
    Grizzly Bear standing up

    These bears are probably siblings, most likely 3-year-olds, out on their own for their first season (grizzly young stay with their mother for two years). They seemed focused on feeding and basically ignored us except when another car would drive up. Being outside the park, there was not much traffic, but when a few guys on motorcycles stopped with the engines chugging, both bears took notice and stood up to check out the noisy interlopers. Finally, we decided to move on as the bears decided to ease back into the treeline, making them almost impossible to see from the road.

    Beartooths below the clouds
    View from high on the Beartooth Highway

    Climbing higher up the mountain we could see the changing landscape as trees dropped out and snow still covered large patches of the rocky terrain.

    watermelon snow
    Watermelon snow at high elevation

    The high elevation views are also interesting if you glance downward. Here and there at these heights you may find an anomaly known as watermelon snow. This pink snow is caused by a cold-loving algae that has a secondary red pigment in addition to chlorophyll. The red pigment probably plays a role in protecting the algal cells from the intense sunlight at these altitudes. It may also absorb heat and hasten the melting of the snow around the cells.

    Mountain Goats
    Rocky Mountain Goats

    The roadway gets up over 10,000 feet above sea level as you go over the pass. Gusty winds are a common companion at these heights and I always marvel at the group of animals that make this landscape their home including Yellow-bellied Marmots, Pika, Rosy Finches, and the non-native Rocky Mountain Goats. We stopped to view a band of several Rocky Mountain Goats grazing on the alpine vegetation on the wind-swept slopes. They gradually worked their way over the hill, vanishing from view. If you are ever in this part of the Yellowstone region, I highly recommend a side trip up the Beartooth Highway. I always feel as if I am in a totaly different world, a world of sky, snow, rock, and animals adapted to extremes. And it is a place where feeling the wind in your face and simply taking a breath can make you feel so vibrant. It is a wonderful tonic…perhaps we can learn something from Rocky Mountain Goats and Pikas.

  • Beyond Yellowstone

    The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, with Yellowstone at its core, is one of the largest nearly intact temperate-zone ecosystems on Earth.

    ~National Park Service

    Yellowstone National Park was established in 1872 primarily to protect the unique geological features of the region including almost half of the world’s active geysers. At that time, natural areas and wildlife habitat were abundant throughout the West. That is no longer the case, and the region protected by the park and adjacent federal, state, private, and tribal lands constitutes one of the largest and most important wildlife habitats in the world. Known as the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem (GYE), it encompasses about 22 million acres and provides critical habitat for the largest free-roaming Bison herd and one of the largest Elk herds in North America, as well as one of the most important Grizzly Bear habitats in the contiguous United States.

    Teton Range
    Teton Range (click photos to enlarge)

    On this trip, we spent an afternoon and morning in the other national park within the GYE, Grand Teton National Park. It had been several years since I visited this scenic jewel, but as the Teton Range came into view, I remembered why many consider this to be one of our most spectacular park landscapes.

    Grand Teton NP
    View along Teton Park Road, Grand Teton National Park

    One thing that makes the Tetons so dramatic is their abrupt rise thousands of feet above a relatively flat valley floor. This is due in large part to a series of massive earthquakes along the Teton Fault that started an estimated 10 million years ago. These quakes caused dramatic shifts in the landscape along the fault with the mountain block lifting skyward and the valley block dropping. The average elevation of the valley floor is 6500 feet. The surrounding peaks of the Teton Range include elevations of 12,605 for the impressive Mount Moran, and up to 13,770 for Grand Teton.

    Oxbow Bend GTNP
    View of the Teton Range from Oxbow Bend

    Spending such a short amount of time here is tough….where to go, what to see, and where to spend a sunrise or sunset. One of my favorite places is the famed Oxbow Bend with a view of the mountain peaks reflected in the calm waters. It is probably better as a sunrise viewing point, but any time of day can be spectacular.

    LSR Preserve
    Visitor Center at the Laurence S. Rockefeller Preserve

    But I had one special destination in mind for this visit, something I had heard about from someone else that had visited it – the Laurence S. Rockefeller Preserve (LSR Preserve) in the southern portion of the park. It is a beautiful area of about 3000 acres, donated by Laurence S. Rockefeller, with the expressed intent of providing a unique setting for people to connect with nature. The LEED-certified building is beautiful and is a place filled with sensory exhibits – the sights and sounds of nature to be found on the trails within the preserve. The parking lot is intentionally small  (50 cars) to limit the number of visitors at any one time, providing for a more personal experience with nature. The spirit and words of Laurence S. Rockefeller and other conservationists and naturalists adorn the interior walls. Here is one of my favorites…

    In the midst of the complexities of modern life, with all its pressures, the spirit of man m=needs to refresh itself by communion with unspoiled nature. In such surroundings – occasional as our visits may be – we can achieve that kind of physical and spiritual renewal that comes alone from the wonder of the natural world.

    ~Laurence S. Rockefeller

    I must say, the brief experience in the Tetons was a bit of a relief from the huge crowds found in the more developed areas of Yellowstone like Old Faithful and Canyon. This reminded me more of my beloved Lamar Valley in its simplicity and pace. Although it made for a long drive back to our lodging in Silver Gate, it was time well spent in a phenomenally stunning setting. And I came away appreciating the dedication and foresight of the people that helped make this park possible, especially the values of Laurence S. Rockefeller. I’ll leave you with one additional quote from the LSR Preserve that I hope our society will embrace…

    How we treat our land, how we build upon it, how we act toward our air and water, will in the long run tell what kind of people we really are.

    ~Laurence S. Rockefeller

  • Yellowstone Skies

    My group was tired last night so I  dropped them off at the lodging and then went back out to just spend some time alone in my special place. We spent the day in the geyser basins, a highlight of a visit to Yellowstone for almost everyone. But, everywhere we went it was crowded, so many people. It started me wondering why other people come to this special place? What is it they take away with them when they leave?

     

    Sunset in Hayden Valley (click photos to enlarge)

    As I drove into Hayden Valley, the sky reminded me of one of the reasons I love this park. There is freedom here.  Freedom to be who you are, to think big, to be inspired to reach for something bigger than yourself. It is vast and wild. I truly believe that helps me put things in perspective. There is beauty in the simplicity of the cycles of life that are so evident here. There is so much to understand and appreciate.  It makes me want to learn, to try to understand how everything fits together. But most of all, it gives me a sense of peace. I want that for the other people I see, but I’m not so sure that some of them are finding it. I watch as people take selfie’s near a bison or geyser. I hear complaints about the food at the restaurants or about the traffic jams (I guess I might be guilty of that last one). But this is Yellowstone, the world’s first national Park. I want them all to appreciate it.

     

    Double rainbow after the storm

    A brief storm moved across Hayden Valley the other night as I contemplated all of this. The sky was soon electric with color.

     

    Rainbow in Hayden Valley

    I wish everybody here could take a moment and look at the sky, to take in it’s beauty. We should all look up every day and see how it changes in both bold and subtle ways. I think the skies of Yellowstone have a lot to say about why life is good and why we should make the most of it. So, wherever you are, take a moment and look up, and try to learn what the sky is trying to tell us.

    Here are some of the sky messages I have seen this week.

    Sunset in Lamar Valley

     

    The Beartooths peeking out of the clouds

     

    Sky reflection at Grand Prismatic Spring

     

    Brilliant sunset at the North entrance to Yellowstone

     

    Looking across Yellowstone Lake at sunrise to West Thumb Geyser Basin

     

    Pink clouds in Lamar Valley
  • Faces of Yellowstone

    There are so many people here this week. So many faces. Many are international visitors. I guess many are in Yellowstone for the first time. I realized how important faces are to us humans, how that is what we usually look at first in another person, and how it can often tell us so much. I have seen tired faces climbing the boardwalk steps at Mammoth, hot faces of people out in the intense sun this week, and surprised faces when a one ton Bison bull suddenly steps in front of someone’s car. But mostly I have seen happy faces, smiling faces. In watching the wildlife I started wondering about their faces and what they might tell us. They look wise and strong. I think I will look more closely and see what I can learn from and about them. Here are some of the faces of Yellowstone wildlife…

    Yellow-headed Blackbird (click photos to enlarge)
    Pronghorn doe… Check out those eyelashes
    Great Gray Owl outside the park toward Beartooths
    Western Grebe
    Lesser Scaup female with male close behind
    Bull Elk in velvet
    Bison bull
    King of Lamar Valley
    Mule Deer doe
    Raven that just brought a chunk of meat to young
    Elk cow
    Elk cow
    Pronghorn buck – note black cheek patch as aid in identifying males

    Note…this may be my last post until I return due to limited cell service

  • Babes in Paradise

    This may not be what you expected if this came up in a Google search. My last post was about being back in Yellowstone… my paradise. It being early June, the park is full of babes… of the wildlife kind. I have seen many in my first couple of days, many too far away to get a photograph, but cool to see nonetheless. Of those eluding a portrait there have been Rocky Mountain Goats on high cliffs, Ravens that apparently fell out of the nest, a Chipping Sparrow nest with hungry babies, and Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep sleeping on what looked like a vertical wall of rock.

    Thus far, three species have allowed me to grab some baby pictures.

      

    The orange – red baby Bison are common in Lamar Valley (click photos to enlarge)

    Baby bison are everywhere in Lamar Valley. They spend much of the day sleeping, and then have bursts of energy and playfulness. I can sit and watch them for hours.

     

    These three yearling Black Bear cubs and their mother are causing a lot of traffic jams near Tower
     
    One set of siblings of a famous bear family provided some great viewing, but not so great photographs. Driving south, there was a huge bear jam near Tower, and when I saw that there were three 1-year-old cubs, I knew it was the same group I had seen last summer as cubs of the year. Their mother seems to have a preference for meadows close to the road and probably enjoys the huge backups of cars she causes. I drove through and parked in a pull out some distance away and then walked back toward the group of bears. I stopped well ahead of the 100 yard minimum distance required for bears and wolves and set up my tripod in the shade of a tree. Rangers were already on the scene directing traffic and trying to manage the crowds. There was a lot of contrast between the shady areas in the bright sunlight grasses so the photographs were not all that great, plus I was pretty far away. 

     

    Bear cubs playing in a tree
     
    At one point all three cubs climbed a small tree and begin playing in it… the tree was shaking back-and-forth, but I have a feeling most of the people in cars that went by never even saw them. Finally, mom climbed a short distance up the tree and must have scolded them, as all three came down and followed her up the slope (to take a nap no doubt).  The bear jam began to break up, and the ranger closest to me walked straight towards me. I was wondering what I had done when suddenly he spoke up and thanked me for obeying the rules and being a respectful photographer. He said it isn’t often that he doesn’t have to tell someone to get back. I appreciated his comments and thanked him for what he does.

     

    Pronghorn mothers typically have twins

    My favorite baby animal thus far has been the Pronghorn Antelope. Yesterday, one mother had twins following her through the sagebrush flats. Twins are actually normal for Pronghorn, but there is a high mortality rate to predators. The youngsters were so cute as they followed along in their mom’s footsteps. 

     

    A mothers’ work is never done
     
    Mother Pronghorns clean the droppings from their fawns’ rear end as a way to reduce scent that might attract predators.  Being a mother is never easy.

     

    Thanks, mom
     
    The mother often leaves the babies hidden in some sagebrush for long periods of time as she wanders off to feed. 

    This morning I saw a female with only one fawn. The baby laid down next to some sagebrush and the female and another doe crossed the road and started feeding several hundred yards away. It is amazing that they can relocate their baby in this landscape that looks so similar to our eyes. 

    Baby Pronghorns in Little America

    I am looking forward to seeing what other new life greets me in the coming days.

     

  • Back in Paradise

     

    Sunrise
     
    A quick post from my favorite place. Arrived yesterday in Yellowstone. Surprisingly hot for this time of year here… 87° in Bozeman. But, the park continues to amaze.

     

    Bison calf from the car window in a bison jam.

    Relatively little wildlife on my way in yesterday save for the usual bear jams near Roosevelt. But then late in the day… two wolves in Lamar Valley.  Too far for an image, but beautiful light. Bison everywhere in Lamar. Lots of road blocks, of the Yellowstone kind. 

     

    Yellow-headed Blackbird perched on Big Sagebrush.

    This morning there was a coyote feeding on a Bison calf carcass down by the river. A Bald Eagle and a few Ravens waited their turn for breakfast. Standing alone on Slough Creek watching Pronghorn… Just another morning in paradise.

  • Lethal Beauty

    The moment one gives close attention to anything, even a blade of grass, it becomes a mysterious, awesome, incredibly magnificent world in itself.

    – Henry Miller

    Something caught my eye yesterday as I walked toward the house along the stone steps. It was on the tip of a leaf of one of the wildflowers yet to bloom.

     

    A tiny hunter positioned on the tip of a leaf, waiting for what may come its way (click photos to enlarge)

    I believe it was a juvenile Assasin Bug of some sort, most likely the Wheel Bug, Arilus cristatus.

     

    Adult Wheel Bugs have what looks like half of a toothed gear (or wheel) attached to their back.

    The nymphs of Wheel Bugs lack the unusual wheel or crest that gives the adult its common name. From what I have read, no one is quite sure of the purpose of this unusual anatomical feature.

     

    The nymph does show the characteristic piercing – sucking mouthpart of Wheel Bugs.

    Though lacking the namesake wheel, the nymph does share the diagnostic mouthparts of the adult Wheel Bug. All True Bugs (family Hemiptera) share these elongate, beak-like mouthparts.  Wheel Bugs are voracious predators, taking all types of insects and other invertebrates, large and small. When they encounter a potential prey, they grab it with their front legs and stick their hypodermic-like beak into the organism, injecting it with saliva. This juice contains a toxic, paralytic substance that immobilizes and kills the prey within 30 seconds.  The saliva also contains enzymes which help dissolve the insides of the victim . After that, the predator sucks out the body fluids of its quarry.

    And the defensive bite of an adult Wheel Bug can be quite painful for humans as well. They are not aggressive but will bite in self-defense if accidentally grabbed or pushed against. It feels like a really bad bee sting.

     

    The tiny warrior reacts when I get close with the macro lens.

    When I brought the macro lens close for a shot, the little guy was defiant, or curious, not sure which.  Either way, it was fascinating to look closely at this creature. Wheel Bugs supposedly have only one generation per year (the picture of the adult was taken in September a couple of years ago). The eggs overwinter and hatch in spring.  I will keep an eye out for them as they molt and mature the next few months.  If any reach that “armored vehicle” stage of adulthood (and they are large as adults, over one inch in length) I will try to share some close-ups of this fascinating garden neighbor.

  • A Fiery Combination

    Nature feeds her children chiefly with color.

    ~Henry David Thoreau

    My wildflower garden is between seasons right now, so color is hard to come by. The whites, light blues, and pinkish-reds of spring’s onslaught of ephemerals and early bloomers has passed, and the bright yellows, oranges, and kaleidoscope of colors of summer flowers has not quite exploded onto the scene. This is especially true in my largely shaded yard. There are few openings in the canopy and the understory is in its jungle-takeover phase, especially with the recent rains. So, green is the dominant color out my windows right now, lots of it. But, if you look around some of the edges, where there is some dappled sunlight filtering in at least part of the day, you will see a hint of color.

    Spigelia offers a dash of color this time of year
    Spigelia offers a dash of color in the shade garden this time of year (click photos to enlarge)

    As you get closer, the faint glimmer transforms into a fiery combination of scarlet and yellow.

    Spigelia
    Spigelia marilandica flowers

    These are the flowers of an uncommon wildflower, Spigelia marilandica. It goes by many common names – Indian Pink, Woodland Pink Root, Worm Grass, most of which refer to its use by Native Americans as an effective treatment for intestinal worms. All parts of the plant contain a poisonous alkaloid, spigeleine (a compound related to strychnine), which gives the plant its medicinal properties and makes it toxic if too much is consumed.

    Spigelia flower buds
    Spigelia flower buds in late afternoon light

    The flowers are arranged in an unusual manner on an arched, one-sided spike at the top of the plant. There is a swelling a little over midway on the flower, and then the tip splits into five bright yellow petals when it opens. One field guide described the flower buds as resembling bowling pins sharpened to a point.

    Spigelia from above
    The color combination of scarlet and yellow is eye-catching

    Flowers can be self-pollinating, but Ruby-throated Hummingbirds are known to pollinate these plants. In fact, it is listed as one of the top ten native plants for hummingbirds by Operation Ruby Throat in South Carolina. Spigelia is apparently more common in that state. The only place I have seen this delicate flower in the wild is in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The plants in the yard were obtained from the NC Botanical Garden in Chapel Hill, a great place to learn about and purchase native plants.

    Spigelia blossom 1
    Spigelia blossoms close up

    I read that the seed capsules swell and then split open, shooting the seeds away from the plant. This gives me another reason to appreciate this fiery beauty, and something to look for later this summer. It is becoming increasingly apparent that I could never leave the yard and still have so much to see and learn from nature.

  • The Struggles of Forest Birds

    How completely the life of a bird revolves about its nest, its home! In the case of the wood thrush, its life and joy seem to mount higher and higher as the nest prospers.

    ~John Burroughs, essay on Wood Thrush, 1871

    On a walk in the woods last week, I spotted a small bird that I didn’t recognize. It was brownish in color and perched on a log. When I got the binoculars on it, I recognized that big-eyed, spiky-feathered look of a young bird…a fledgling of some sort. My first thought was Ovenbird, and within a couple of seconds, an adult Ovenbird flew in, confirming it. Turns out there were at least two young, and they both flew off with the adult soon after. Earlier this spring, I had heard a male Ovenbird singing frequently in this same area, so it seems a pair had built a nest and successfully fledged some young. I smiled, as it is never easy for birds to successfully rear young with so many things that can go wrong. What had started us on this path through the trees was seeing a Wood Thrush flying by with a beak full of worms. No doubt headed to a nest to feed some hungry babies. The Ovenbirds had distracted us, but we continued on in the direction where we had lost sight of the Wood Thrush.

    The nest
    The nest (click photos to enlarge)

    Suddenly, there it was, less than twenty feet away, a Wood Thrush nest with an adult bird sitting on the edge. We gave it a wide berth as we walked out to the nearby gravel road and the adult stayed with the nest, watching us. The nest was about 7 feet off the ground in a fork of a small Ironwood (Hornbeam) tree. I was surprised at how visible it was – good for photography, but bad for protection from predators.

    Adult feeding nestlings
    Adult feeding nestlings

    Over the next two days, I sat in a camouflage blind and observed the comings and goings of the two parents as they brought beak-fulls of food (mainly earthworms) to the four nestlings.

    Four nestlings
    Four nestlings raising their beaks in anticipation as an adult bird lands on a nearby twig

    Based on what I could see of the young through my telephoto lens, I am guessing they were three or four days old.

    Although I could not tell the difference between the sexes of the adults by their feather pattern, I could differentiate them by their behavior. The female would often fluff out her belly feathers and sit on the nestlings as if brooding. The male never did this, and frequently left the nest well before the female returned with a beak full of food. To my surprise, on a couple of occasions, he even sang quietly while at the nest, perhaps in response to other males singing loudly nearby.

    Most of the time I observed the nest, one of the adults was sitting nearby. This seemed like a good strategy given the number of potential threats in these woods – American Crows, Blue Jays, Black Rat Snakes, Raccoons, Gray Squirrels, feral or neighborhood cats…the list was pretty long. I did see one of the adult Wood Thrush harassing a Blue Jay that approached within about twenty feet of the nest. When it finally left, the Wood Thrush pair stayed off the nest for several minutes and then came back, checked on things, and resumed their feeding. The typical pattern was for one of the birds to be on or next to the nest until the other adult was in view with more food, then it would fly off to forage while the other bird fed the young.

    This clip shows an example of the typical feeding sequence. The female is the one initially at the nest. She leaves when she spots the male coming in. He brings in the food and proceeds to stuff morsels into the open beaks before him. Notice the spider that has apparently escaped from the beak in transit and is clinging to the breast of the adult male. Then watch what happens with the spider after the initial feeding sequence.

    After doling out the food, the adult bird waits until one of the young birds presents a fecal sac, then it grabs it, and eats it. Only once did I see the adult take the fecal sac and fly off with it as I have seen with many other species. Some references imply that the adult Wood Thrush do this for the first few days of the nestlings life, and then presumably fly off with it to discard it away from the nest. All of this is to keep the nest area clean and to avoid providing clues to predators as to the nest location.

    I was gone for three days, and was looking forward to seeing how much the young birds had grown on my return. The next morning when I went out, I could see from the road that something was wrong.

    Wood Thrush nest after predation
    Wood Thrush nest after predation

    The nest was slightly skewed in position, and there were no tiny heads poking up above the rim. Dang it…something had found the nest. I knew it would be empty, but I checked anyway. Sure enough, the babies were gone. Looking around I didn’t see any feathers or other signs left by the predator. I assume the adult birds escaped harm. The nest was only slightly messed up, one side showing a little disturbance. My best guess is an aerial predator – either American Crows or Blue Jays. Both birds are active in this area every day, both are extremely intelligent and sharp-eyed. I worried that my photography of the nest (from a camouflage blind that I removed after each session) might put it in danger, and now I feel sick about that. But, I will never know.

    It turns out, Wood Thrush may be particularly susceptible to nest predation and that is one reason given for their decline in numbers in recent decades. Fragmented forests (tracts that have portions cleared for some purpose) tend to allow more predators (and nest parasites such as Brown-headed Cowbirds), access to forest-dwelling species such as Wood Thrush. And, since Wood Thrush tend to build their nests in fairly visible locations, they often suffer nest predation. I found several studies that showed a nesting success rate for Wood Thrush of between 26-30%. One study, in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, placed small cameras at Wood Thrush nests and documented the variety of dangers over the nesting cycle. It seems there are many more hazards when the nest contains just eggs. Egg predators included White-footed Mice, Blue Jays, American Crows, Gray Squirrels, Eastern Chipmunks, Black Rat Snakes, and Black Bears. Once the eggs hatched, the number of documented predators dwindled to three – American Crows, Black Bears, and an Eastern Screech Owl.

    Interestingly, it is not just an issue of modern times. While reading John Burroughs’ essay on Wood Thrush from the late 1800’s, I found this quote…

    There is no nest-builder that suffers more from crows and squirrels and other enemies than the wood thrush. It builds as openly and unsuspiciously as if it thought all the world as honest as itself. Its favorite place is the fork of a sapling, eight or ten feet from the ground, where it falls an easy prey to every nest-robber that comes prowling through the woods and groves.

    I imagine his world was one of a patchwork of forest and cleared farmland, perhaps similar to the fragmented forests and developments of today. All of this points to the fact that it is a tough world out there for our song birds. This spring, I have seen evidence of successful fledging of Carolina Chickadees, Carolina Wrens, Eastern Bluebirds, Ovenbirds, and Downy Woodpeckers near the house. I have also observed nest failures of this Wood Thrush and a Northern Cardinal nest. There are obviously many hazards that birds face and we should make every effort to minimize those that we can, such as window kills, outdoor cats, the overuse of pesticides, and the destruction of habitat. Planting native plants is certainly a way to encourage birds and provide more food. I have a small amount of grassy lawn and I never saw the Wood Thrush foraging in it (like we see with American Robins searching in lawns). Instead, they were always in the leaf litter in the natural areas of the yard or beyond, flipping leaves in search of prey that included earthworms, caterpillars, a moth, and spiders. A diverse habitat can support a diversity of invertebrates and therefore a diversity of birds and other wildlife – it is as simple as that. I still hear numerous male Wood Thrush singing all around the property. I imagine the pair I observed will attempt a second brood. Nature is persistent, and, if given a chance, will persevere. Let’s all do what we can to give it that chance.

  • Roaming the River of Life

    A river is the most human and companionable of all inanimate things. It has a life, a character, a voice of its own, and is as full of good fellowship as a sugar maple is of sap. It can talk in various tones, loud or low, and of many subjects grave and gay…For real company and friendship, there is nothing outside of the animal kingdom that is comparable to a river.

    ~Henry Van Dyke

    Roanoke scene
    Scene along the lower Roanoke River (click photos to enlarge)

    After spending some time camping and hiking in the mountains, it seemed appropriate to have a totally different type of experience by paddling a few days on one of my favorite rivers, the Roanoke. The Roanoke is a mighty river, meandering over 400 miles from the mountains of southwest Virginia to Albemarle Sound in North Carolina. In places, the flood plain is immense and provides habitat for countless animals and plants, and solace for any who paddle though it. The Nature Conservancy has helped protect over 90,000 acres along the Roanoke and calls this area the largest and least disturbed bottomland hardwood forest ecosystem on the East Coast.

    Tent on platform
    Tent on the camping platform at Three Sisters

    One of the things that makes this river so special for paddlers is its series of camping platforms. Roanoke River Partners coordinates a reservation system on over 20 camping platforms along the lower Roanoke and its tributaries. On this trip, we were going to paddle about 28 miles over three days, staying at two platforms – Three Sisters on Broad Creek on the Roanoke, and Otter One, on a different Broad Creek off the Cashie River.

    Roanoke Outdoor Adventures
    Captain Heber of Roanoke Outdoor Adventures

    A trip like this would normally require a couple of cars, one at the starting point and one at the take out. But, we decided to opt for a local outfitter, Roanoke Outdoor Adventures, run by Captain Heber Coltrain. Heber is a local guide that rents canoes and kayaks, can help you plan a trip through the area, and provide shuttle service. He is knowledgeable about the region and its history and I can recommend his services to anyone planning a trip in this region.

    Roanoke shoreline showing defoliated trees
    Roanoke shoreline showing defoliated trees

    Putting in at the NC Wildlife boat ramp near Jamesville, one of the first things you notice is a lack of leaves on many of the trees along the shoreline. At first glance, it looks as though the Tupelo Gum just haven’t leafed out yet this spring. A closer look shows they have, but the leaves have all been consumed, almost every leaf gone!

    Forest Tent Caterpillars
    Forest Tent Caterpillars resting in a characteristic patch on a tree trunk

    The culprit? A huge outbreak of Forest Tent Caterpillars Malacosoma disstria. Unlike the more familiar Easter Tent Caterpillars, these munchers do not build the communal silk shelter we commonly see in the forks of certain tree branches in early spring. Instead, they create a silk pad on the branches or trunk of a tree and congregate on it when at rest or molting. Early stages are almost all black with conspicuous hairs. As they mature, they acquire blue sides and footprint-shaped white marks on a dark background along their dorsal surface. Their primary host along the Roanoke seems to be Tupelo Gum, although we saw other species, such as Sweet Gum, that had been stripped. These outbreaks can occur over many years (this is at least the second year for this area) and must have a huge impact on tree growth and survival as well as impacts all along the food chain. Tree flower and nectar production are almost nil and the resulting lack of fruit can impact many mammals and birds.

    Forest Tent Caterpillar folding leaf
    Forest Tent Caterpillar folding a leaf

    There is one generation per year and we were there as the caterpillars were starting to pupate. They fold a leaf by stringing silk across the edges. The silk strands contract as they dry, pulling the leaf sides together.

    Forest tent caterpillar making retreat
    One night’s work by a caterpillar

    Overnight, we saw one leaf shelter almost completed in a Smilax vine along the platform. Once the shelter is complete, the caterpillar pupates inside. Adult moths emerge in a couple of weeks and lay eggs in the tree canopy. The eggs hatch next spring as the tree leaves begin to unfurl. There are some species that probably benefit from this seemingly endless abundance of larval lunch meat – most notably various parasites and predators. Yellow-billed Cuckoos are caterpillar specialists, and probably have good years during the outbreaks, and we saw and heard plenty. We also saw several of the ubiquitous swamp canaries, the Prothonotary Warblers, beating the two-inch larvae on tree limbs before gulping them down.

    Prothonotary Warbler bringing moss to nest cavity 1
    Prothonotary Warbler male bringing moss to a potential nest cavity

    As we unloaded our gear the first afternoon, a bright yellow male serenaded us in his attempt to lure a lady to a nest cavity he was actively preparing.

    Prothonotary Warbler stuffing moss into nest cavity
    Prothonotary Warbler stuffing moss into nest cavity
    Prothonotary Warbler singing at nest cavity
    Prothonotary Warbler singing at nest cavity

    As he sang, he gathered dry moss from a nearby log. With a beak full of moss, he flew up to a hollow snag, and stuffed the moss into the future bedroom and nursery. In between, he frequently battled another male from across the creek, defending what he hoped would be an attractive spot for a future mate. His is a busy life in the swamp.

    Ours was a relaxed life. We swam frequently to cool off, and enjoyed the peace and quiet as we paddled toward our take-out miles away. We crossed through to the Cashie River at one point and paddled thorough part of the vast Roanoke River National Wildlife Refuge. All along our journey were sights and sounds that make me want to return to what was originally called the River of Death, for its frequent huge floods. But, to me, the vast wilderness along this stretch of river, and the large acreage under protection by various public land agencies and conservation groups, makes this a River of Life. Time spent paddling on the Roanoke is truly a retreat from a bustling modern world, and a means to glimpse the beauty and mystery of the many secrets of a swamp.

    Moutain Laurel and lily pads along the Roanoke
    The contrast of Mountain Laurel and lily pads on a north slope along the Roanoke River below Jamesville
    Large cypress nect to platform
    Huge Bald Cypress tree next to camping platform
    Wasp milking aphids
    Wasp milking aphids for honeydew on a Tag Alder in the swamp
    Lily pads and tree reflection
    View of the swamp from one of the camping platforms
    Prothonotary Warbler in threat display to other male
    Male Prothonotary Warbler in threat display to another male
    Cashie scene
    Cashie River scene

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