You cannot leave Africa, Africa said. It is always with you, there inside your head.
~Bridget Dore
Well, I’m finally getting back to continue the story of our November trip to South Africa. In the first blog post, I covered our first few days after arriving in Johannesburg and traveling to Kruger National Park. This post covers our last couple of days in Kruger. I’ll try to wrap up the highlights of this amazing trip in the near future. We traveled with our friend and guide, Andrew Torlage, who is from South Africa and now lives in Hillsborough. I want to thank him again for arranging this incredible tour of his homeland and sharing its many wonders. Several of you asked about how to learn more about the trips Andrew offers. His website is now up (https://vakashaafrica.com/ ) and he is offering two other trips this coming year (you may recognize some of the people and wildlife in the pictures as many are from our inaugural trip last year). One trip is basically a repeat of our tour. The other is for the more adventure-minded traveler. That one will visit a few of the same places we saw but will include some camping and more walks in the bush with wildlife. It will also venture further afield to some other great locations. If the adventure package appeals to you (it looks fantastic), he is offering it at an introductory price below what is listed on the website, just $2799 per person. Contact Andrew for additional information. I highly recommend it.
Our lodging at Skakuza, the round huts called rondevals (click photos to enlarge)
Now, back to our trip. After two nights at Berg-en-Dal, we drove over an hour to our next lodging – Skakuza Rest Camp situated along the Sabie River. Our accommodations were in thatched-roof round huts called rondavels. We had an ambitious schedule with a night game drive our first night, followed by an early start for a guided bush walk the next morning. I had read about the possibility of seeing fruit bats roosting under the eaves of some of the buildings at this camp, so when we arrived, a few of us started looking and soon discovered a large bat hanging upside down on the edge of the roof of the restaurant.
Epauletted Fruit Bat
The night game drive was fascinating although I do believe we saw almost as much night life on the afternoon game drives as they usually ended after dark (except there were definitely more hippos out later as they leave the water to feed after sundown). The highlight for me on this drive was seeing a large owl, a Verreaux’s Eagle Owl, which can take prey as large as monkeys.
Verreaux’s Eagle Owl
The morning bush walk came a bit early (we met at 4:30 am) after the late night game drive, but we all were stoked about this walk into the bush with gun-toting rangers. There is a maximum limit of 8 tourists allowed on these hikes, so, our guide, Andrew, had to sit this one out.
On the drive to the bush walk site, we experienced the African equivalent to the many bison jams we have n Yellowstone, only bigger – an elephant jam. A small herd of elephants decided to come out next to and into the road and take their time meandering through the bush. One baby elephant was incredibly cute as it tossed and retrieved a stick as it walked.
When we finally reached our destination, we had two Kruger rangers with rifles as our leaders. Oddly, they both walked at the front of the single file line of us hikers. I was next to last and turned to the person behind me and said, “good luck”. We walked at a brisk pace but made frequent stops to hear about the plants and animals along the trail. Early into the hike, we encountered hyena tracks, and then lion tracks.
Following lion tracks on our walk
Shorty afterward, the lead guide spotted a male lion about 50 yards out, lying down and blending in to the bush very well. He whispered some information to us and then, to our surprise, said, “let’s get closer”. We walked about 5 yards and the lion stood up and ran off. We all (including the guides) were very excited with this encounter.
At a lunch break, a Black-backed Jackal trotted back and forth across an open grassy area, occasionally pausing to glance our way. It reminded me of the Coyotes I see in Yellowstone.
Black-backed Jackal
On our return to camp, we had a nice lunch at the cafe on the river. As is often the case in Kruger, our meal was interrupted several times by wildlife sightings (and wildlife thinking they might get some of our food).
A Vervet monkey with baby came close to our table and wondered about the special for the day.One of the more exotic birds we saw on our trip was this Saddle-billed Stork feeding in the river below the cafe.An impressive African or Cape Buffalo across the river. I believe this one is a male by the thickness of its horns and the fact the horns touch at the base. These animals are massive (almost 5 ft at the shoulder and males can weigh over 1700 lbs) and are temperamental, making them one of the most dangerous of African mammals.A beautiful Leopard Tortoise on our walk back to our rondeval. This, the most common tortoise in South Africa, can live up to 75 years.
That afternoon we headed to another hide for some wildlife watching. It was on a large pond full of hippos and birds.
Hippo conversations about loveA male Lesser Masked-Weaver gathering grass for nest building A colony of weaver finch nests across the water from the hide
The drive back to our lodging had plenty more wildlife sightings. Another elephant group near the road was among the many highlights.
A huge elephant walks through the grasses and shrubs along the roadA Blue Wildebeest grazing. A mother and young Burchell’s Zebra. This species is characterized by the “shadow stripes” between the black and white stripes on the rump. Each individual has a unique pattern of stripes A Helmeted GuineafowlA young Spotted Hyena near its apparent den under a rock pile right next to the road. Hyenas are arguably the most successful large predator in Africa. Their sloped body shape aids in their loping gait which is an efficient way to cover large distances while they hunt and scavenge. Their large head and neck are adapted for tearing their prey.and crushing bones.Male lion resting in the shade along the roadA nice yawn reveals some formidable teeth in the mouth of this lion
It had been a productive few days in Kruger National Park. But the next day we were to head out on a new adventure traveling across South Africa toward the coast. I’ll try to get some more posts on this amazing trip in the coming weeks.
I’ve been so busy that I am still playing catch up with blog about our past trips. This one has been on my bucket list for several years – a March trip to Nebraska to witness the spectacular spring migration of Sandhill Cranes. We occasionally see a few of these majestic birds in North Carolina in winter (we counted 24 on this past year’s Christmas Bird Count at Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge). But, along the Platte River in southern Nebraska, they often congregate in the hundreds of thousands during migration. We had planned this trip the spring after my retirement in 2020, but then the world hit pause for a couple of years and everything had to be rescheduled. But this spring, we made it.
Sandhill Cranes in a Nebraska cornfield (click photos to enlarge)
Sandhill Cranes are elegant gray-brown birds from 3 to 4 feet in height (depending on subspecies) with wingspans of up to 6 feet. They mate for life and travel in family groups (a group of Sandhill Cranes is called a sedge). In addition to their physical beauty, they have a distinctive call. The famed conservationist, Aldo Leopold, described the sounds of Sandhill Cranes as the “tinkling of little bells, the baying of some sweet-throated hound, and a pandemonium of trumpets, rattles, croaks, and cries.” To me, their loud rattling trumpeting is a symbol of the wild, since I first heard it years ago on my first trip to Yellowstone.
Sandhill Crane calling as it flies by
There are several subspecies of this crane, some of which are migratory and a few, especially the Greater and the Lesser Sandhill Cranes, that undertake long-distance migrations in North America between their breeding grounds in the far north and wintering grounds in the southern U.S. and Mexico. The Platte River in south central Nebraska is an ideal stopover on this long journey – plenty of cornfields with leftover grain, plus a braided river where they can roost at night in shallow water, safe from predators. They stay in the area for several weeks each spring, building up the energy reserves necessary to complete their migration and start breeding and raising young. Lucky for us, when we reached Nebraska in late March, we were there at the peak of the migration numbers, an estimated 486,000 Sandhill Cranes!
Sandhill Cranes returning to the river to roost for the night
Local groups like the Crane Trust and Audubon’s Rowe Sanctuary work with other conservation partners and local farmers to protect and manage the habitat the cranes prefer and need. There are opportunities to watch cranes come in to roost on the river in the evening from public viewing areas or through tours with the Crane Trust, Rowe Sanctuary, and some private businesses. We spent our first evening at a well-known viewing spot getting a feeling for the timing of the crane’s return from the fields. By 7:30 pm the orange sky was full of crane silhouettes and the sounds of thousands of cranes headed for their favorite roosting spots along the Platte River.
In addition to viewing the cranes from the usual spots, we paid for a special outing at the Rowe Sanctuary – sleeping in a small blind (about 6ft x 8ft) on the river next to where the cranes might roost for the evening. The blinds are fine if you are used to camping – small unheated wooden structures with viewing ports that open and close. Volunteers at Rowe Sanctuary drop you and your gear off at the blind in late afternoon. You are provided with a red flashlight (no white lights allowed as it might scare the cranes) and a bucket stocked with poo bags as your toilet (you’re not allowed to leave the blind at all). We brought sleeping bags and pads, plenty of warm clothes, camp chairs, some food and water, our camera gear and binoculars, and a sense of anticipation.
Melissa in our overnight blind
A few ducks and shorebirds were in front of the blind for the first couple of hours. As sunset approached, we saw small flocks of cranes flying over and landing about a half-mile upriver. This continued as they sun sank lower. I glanced at my watch thinking the birds should be here (it was 7:30 pm!). Flocks of cranes now filled the sky upriver but none were landing near us and I was trying not to show my disappointment. The time was now almost 8 pm and I was starting to feel very disappointed when four cranes suddenly landed about 50 yards upriver from us. Well, it was a start.
After another few anxious moments, a large flock of cranes flew overhead, then circled and landed near the first four. Within minutes, there were more flocks landing, some right in front of our blind! Soon, there were thousands of noisy cranes within a couple of hundred yards up and downriver of the blind. The dim light prevented me using my telephoto lens, but sitting there with the lingering color of sunset and the sounds of so many cranes was a spiritual moment.
After darkness settled in, we gently closed the windows and used the red flashlight to put away our chairs and lay out our sleeping bags, worried that each move we made was so noisy that the birds would spook and fly off. Before sunrise the next morning, we slowly put away our sleeping gear, unfolded our chairs, and gently opened the windows to an amazing sight. The river was covered in cranes as far as we could see in both directions. It was a glorious morning listening and watching the cranes. Small groups were flying to and from the sand bars providing us with plenty of opportunities for photos in the morning light.
Sandhill Cranes in front of our bind the next morning
Dancing is perhaps the most famous behavior associated with Sandhill Cranes. Maneuvers include bows, head thrusts, and vertical leaps with spread wings. A crane often grabs a stick or piece of vegetation and tosses it in the air as part of this eye-catching ritual.
An enthusiastic Sandhill Crane throws a stick while leaping in the air as part of its “dance”Landing gear down
More and more birds took off and we were finally left with just a few scattered individuals by mid-morning when we heard the ATV coming to retrieve us. We had reserved thae next night at the much more luxurious Crane Trust lodge with a nice catered dinner. But, we had several hours before we checked in there so we drove the back roads looking for more birds.
We spotted some Whooping Cranes feeding with some Sandhill Cranes far back in a cornfield. This clearly shows the difference in size between these species.
We got lucky and spotted a group of large white birds feeding in a field with some Sandhills. They were Whooping Cranes, the tallest North American bird at almost 5 feet and also one of the rarest. A major conservation effort brought the population back from only about 15 birds in the wild in the early 1940s to today’s population of over 500 migratory whoopers. The Platte River is an important stopover in their migration from Texas to Canada every year and we were fortunate to see 15 over a couple of days.
Some of the Whoopiig Cranes have color coded leg bands and a few had tracking devices on their legs so scientists can monitor their movements in hopes of better understanding what is needed for this species’ long-term survivalA group of Whooping Cranes flying off the field
Though crane-viewing was the primary goal of our trip, we also took advantage of two other Nebraska birding wonders – the breeding displays of Greater Prairie Chickens and Sharp-tailed Grouse. Both species congregate at specific locations (called leks) each spring where males have elaborate courtship displays that include rapid foot-stomping, feather and wing displays, colorful inflated air sacs, and unusual sounds. A few local guides operate blinds to view the leks at dawn, when the birds are most active. We booked mornings in two different blinds, one of which was a modified horse trailer, the other an old school bus. The low booming sound of the males is something you wouldn’t expect from a bird. It is amazing that this has happened in these same locations for generations of birds.
The birds continued displaying for a couple of hours after sunrise with occasional brief battles.
When displaying, males erect ear-like plumes and inflate orange-purple air sacs on their neckA Greater Prairie Chicken ruckus
All the birds took flight at one point when a raptor of some sort flew above our blind (someone saw its shadow). A while later a Cooper’s Hawk dove into the lek and hit one of the birds, but it and all the others took flight. Our guide (the farmer on whose land the lek was located) called it a day at that point figuring the “chickens” wouldn’t return (and that some of us might need a bathroom break and some coffee).
We had reserved a blind at a Sharp-tailed Grouse lek at Valentine NWR and had received informatin on another at a National Forest site we had camped in before. A winter storm blew through the area delaying our plans to head north for a day so we missed our reservation date for the first site. We finally departed, using the online snow plow cams and maps to see what roads were clear (a very nice feature of the Nebraska Dept. of Transportation). The snow and lek location made for a stark, but beautiful, landscape. It turned out to be a real highlight, especially for Melissa. She drove our 4WD truck through several inches of fresh snow and then out onto the refuge “road” (no tire tracks here and when not covered with snow it is just a sandy/grassy lane through the Sandhills) toward the grouse blind so we would be close for sunrise the next morning. It was a beautiful evening camping out in the middle of nowhere with 5 inches of fresh snow.
Our campsite for the Sharp-tailed Grouse lek experience (so glad we brought our new Solo Stove on this trip)
Whie traveling, we had checked the time for sunrise and set our phone alarms for 30 minutes before sunrise. There was close to a full moon that night so wen we got up the next morning it didn’t surprise us much that it was so light. But as we gathered our gear, the sun peeked up over the horizon…we were late (you are supposed to be in the blinds before sunrise so as to not disturb the birds). Worse yet, we could see with our binoculars that the birds were already on the lek. It turns out as we approached this site we had just barely crossed over the time zone line changing from the Mountain Time Zone to the Central Time Zone and it fooled us since we had no cell phone service out there. We went ahead and walked out and the birds did flush, but returned shortly after to start displaying again.
Sharp-tailed Grouse male displaying (you can see how they get their common name)
Though not as noisy as the prairie chicken display, seeing these birds dancing and sparring in the fresh snow at sunrise was phenomenal. This was early in the breeding season for this species and most of the birds weren’t quite up to the task to display and fight for very long and spent much of their time squared off against one another with rather brief bouts of displays.
Two males square off after a brief display, but then just sat there for several minutes
But when a female came in they all got a bit more energetic. Reminds me of my college days…
Male Sharp-tailed Grouse sparring on the lek
Though it may not sound like it at first, a trip to Nebraska in mid-late March is certainly worth it. If roughing it in a small blind is not your thing, both Audubon’s Rowe Sanctuary and the Crane Trust have wonderful viewing blinds and a variety of program offerings. Your visit will support conservation efforts to help maintain one of North America’s greatest wildlife spectacles, the migration of thousands of Sandhill Cranes. And since you are there, check out the lek activities if you get a chance – well worth it.
Wherever we go on land, these small creatures are within a few inches of our feet—often disregarded. We would do very well to remember them.
~Sir David Attenborough
The sound of periodical cicadas continues to dominate the air here in our woods, but I see more and more of their lifeless bodies scattered about as I walk around the yard. Their short time amongst us as winged adults is probably about half over and, soon, they will be just a memory.
Periodical Cicada (click photos to enlarge)
Since much of their daily life now happens high in the trees, I am starting to look for some of my other tiny wild neighbors. Here are a few I’ve encountered the past couple of days while working/walking in the yard…
A new species for the yard, a Redbud Borer beetle, Ptosima gibbicollis
I’m always on the lookout for new species to add to my iNaturalist list of invertebrates for the property and before the drenching rains, I spotted a small beetle with unusual markings. I took a quick phone photo for ID purposes and went inside to get my camera. Of course, it was gone when I got back so the slightly out-of-focus phone pic will have to do. This small metallic wood-boring beetle is found on its namesake tree, Eastern Redbud. Larvae live and feed in the wood. This one was on a leaf of another species underneath a Redbud tree.
The gaudy nymphs of the Two-striped Planthopper, Acanalonia bivittata
One of the more common insects in our yard is the Two-striped Planthopper. I came across a band of nymphs on a Cross Vine. Their bizarre butt tufts are waxy filaments that are supposedly water repellant. The poofy fibers are created by glands in the abdomen and may serve to help disguise the nymphs and may dissuade predators from dining on this particular type of string cheese.
A second instar larva of an Eastern Tiger Swallowtail butterfly
I’ve seen a few Eastern Tiger Swallowtail caterpillars around the yard, most in their bird poop mimic phase of life. The disguise must work as they tend to be on the top of the leaves, fully exposed to the eyes o hungry birds. Most are on their favored host plant on our property, the abundant Tulip Poplars. But this one was a rarity here as it was sitting on a Wild Cherry leaf.
Later instar of an Eastern Tiger Swallowtail caterpillar
The first tiger swallowtail caterpillar I found was a first instar one on a Tulip Poplar saping at the edge of our garden. I often leave the saplings of potential host plants in the yard and just keep cutting them back each year so they don’t shade out our garden plants or wildflowers. This particular sapling has been a good site for finding caterpillars over the years so I keep it about 4 feet tall to make it easier to see the larvae. After its second molt, the caterpillar vanished so I assumed one of the patrolling wasps or a foraging wren had found it. But, as often happens with this species, it reappeared as the hard-to-see green caterpillar perched on its silken platform a few days ago. I think they must crawl to a hidden spot to molt since that is such a vulnerable time in their larval life.
Male Sylvan Jumping Spider, Colonus sylvanus
As I looked at one of the wildflowers I recently planted, I noticed some movement. It was a small dark jumping spider. As I moved in closer, it did what many jumpers do, it oriented towards me, staring up at me with its eight eyes (well, at least the two big ones on the front of its “face”). If I continue to move the camera closer, they often jump onto the lens, making photography a bit more challenging. Another pic of the dorsal side of this spider allowed me to ID this little guy as a Sylvan Jumping Spider, a species I had catalogued last year on iNaturalist. Males of this species look quite different than the females.
Female Sylvan Jumping Spider with prey
Females are tan with some stripes on the abdomen and white and red or orange between the eyes. I spotted this female a few feet from the male in the previous pic. She was less interested in jumping at my camera and was more concerned with keeping me from stealing her meal.
Jumping spider with a tasty morsel of unidentified fly
She stared and dared me to try to take it, and then scurried under the leaf, safe from the giant two-eyed monster (my macro lens has two large white diffusers on the twin flashes).
The cicadas have occupied much of my (our?) attention these past few weeks, but their time in the sun may be fading soon, so it is good to remind ourselves that there is so much more out there beneath our feet. But, I must admit, I will miss the red-eyed masses when they are gone.
Yesterday’s blog on Brood XIX was a brief summary of what I have been doing the past several evenings as I marvel at this occurrence. There are two things I had hoped to find in this year’s emergence after reading more about these amazing insects – a blue-eyed adult (a rare genetic oddity) and one with a fungus-infected rear end. I still haven’t seen a baby blue-eyed bug, but I have found one with a white butt. Oddly, I carried something from the front porch inside and when I walked back into the foyer, there was a cicada crawling on the floor (a hitch hiker on that package I carried in I suppose). I picked it up and was going to release it outside when I saw its rear was white. The fungus!
Periodical cicada infected with the fungus, Massospora cicadina
A stage 1 infection of this fungus on a cicada shows up as a whitish coating on the lower third of its abdomen. This fungus has a bizarre life history, matching that of its “prey”, the periodical cicadas (the fungus is known to infect both 13-year and 17-year periodical cicadas). I found a transcript online of an interview with Dr. Matt Kasson, an associate professor of forest pathology and mycology at West Virginia University. He has been studying this unique fungus for a number of years and described some of its unusual characteristics. Unlike other types of so-called zombie fungi (they alter the behavior of their host to create conditions better for spore dispersal) in which the death of the host is the usual means of better spore dispersal, this fungus exhibits active-host transmission. It keeps the host alive in order to better spread the spores. It does this by altering the cicadas behavior. He called the behavior hypersexualization. Male cicadas with the fungus will try to mate with females but will also exhibit the female behavior of wing flicking which creates an audible snapping sound. Uninfected males do not wing flick. Females do this in response to the male calls. This causes other male cicadas to try to mate with the infected males, enhancing the chances for fungal dispersal. One paper suggested this is a type of STD for cicadas!
Later in the emergence, cicadas infected with the Stage 1 phase of the fungus begin producing resting spores as part of the Stage 2 phase of the infection. These resting spores spread onto to the ground and will infect the next generation of cicadas that will emerge from the soil 13 or 17 years later. Scientists aren’t sure whether the hatching larvae pick up the resting spores as they burrow into the soil to feed on tree roots or whether the next generation of nymphs picks them up when they tunnel to the surface to emerge (or whether both occur).
One result of the fungus is that portions of the abdomen fall off of infected individuals. I have noticed a few cicadas with half their abdomen missing and initially thought this was from predation. After learning more about the infection, I picked one up and looked closely and saw white coloration inside the remaining body cavity. Is this the fungus? This morning, I sent photos of both cicadas to Dr. Kasson for his assessment of whether these are infected individuals. He quickly responded and confirmed the one in the first photo at the top of this page is indeed an infected cicada and he would like the sample. The other one is too damaged to determine from the photos. If you have any Brood XIX cicadas you suspect of being infected, you can contact him at mtkasson@mail.wvu.edu.
Cicada with half of its abdomen missingIs this the fungus inside the body cavity of that cicada?
The more I learn about fungi, the more I think that they truly are the life form in control of this planet. Or is it just that they want me to think that?
Nothing in the cry of cicadas suggests that they are about to die.
~Matsuo Basho
I imagine you are deluged with social media posts and news reports about the spectacle that those of us in this area are living with right now – the emergence of Brood XIX of periodical cicadas. I hesitated adding one more blog about this phenomenon, but, let’s face it, it is pretty astonishing. And, perhaps it will help one of the many people I read about on social media every day that are wondering what that strange whining sound is all about. So, let’s start with that sound (recorded yesterday in front of our house; yu will also hear one of the many Wood Thrush that sing in our woods)…(turn sound up)
I photographed members of this brood the last time they were above ground in this area back in 2011. My article in this months’ issue of Walter magazine is about the current emergence but has photos from 2011 (due to publication schedules, the current brood had not emerged by my deadline date). The dates of those 2011 photos correspond closely (within a week, with this year being a bit earlier) with this year’s emergence. That is pretty remarkable given the 13-year time difference. Note – we also have a few species of so-called annual cicadas in our area but they are generally larger, green in color, and emerge later in the summer.
Here’s a quick summary of this marvelous event and the life cycle of these amazing creatures. Nymphs spend 13 years underground sucking on nutrients in tree roots. They may be able to tell the passage of time by the seasonality of the trees in terms of sap flow and nutrient differences between winter and summer tree seasons. When the time is right, they dig their way to the surface, often leaving a prepared exit hole and waiting until soil temperatures reach about 64 degrees. They tend to emerge at night and then crawl up a vertical surface to transform into the adult cicada. That process involves splitting the back of the nymphal skin, pulling out and then clinging to something (usually the excuviae they just shed) and pumping fluid into their wings to expand them. This process takes an hour or more. Adults begin to fly the next day (they aren’t great at it) and males start singing in a few days when enough have emerged to “chorus”. Chorusing is usually done high in the trees. This attracts females and mating takes place. She then uses her knife-like ovipositor to slice into twigs and lay her eggs. This causes flagging of the branches, often pruning the tips. Nymphs hatch in about 6 weeks, drop to the ground, dig a couple of feet into the soil and start the cycle all over again.
-Periodical cicada holes showing the high concentration. This photo is of the space between stepping stones in a walkway in downtown Pittsboro. I have seen estimates as high as one million cicadas per a acre during this emergence (click photos to enlarge)
There are seven species of periodical cicadas (all are found only in the Midwest or Eastern North America) – four have 13-year cycles and three have 17-year life cycles. We are pretty sure we have three species of the Brood XIX 13-year cicadas emerging on our property (a brood is an assemblage of periodical cicadas with synchronized emergence over a geographic area) . Our largest is Magicicada tredecim (with an orange abdomen). The two smaller species are similar in size to each other but differ in color – M. tredecassini (small and no orange) and M. tredecula (small with narrow orange stripes). The large species seemed to be the dominant one the first day or two of the emergence. The past couple of days has had a lot more of the two smaller species. Emergence seems to have occurred in patches on our property, with some high concentrations in select areas in the yard one evening and another location the next night. It looks as though they aren’t climbing much higher than 10 or 15 feet into the trees to transform with many at the tips of low branches.
Birds are feasting on them and I have seen Carolina Chickadees, Eastern Bluebirds, and Summer Tanagers all grabbing them. I imagine squirrels, mice, and maybe even deer are dining on these tiny “shellfish wannabes” as well. Nearby friends have posted photos of lizards and snakes with very full bellies so I think the cicadas are on the menu of many local species. I’m still trying to decide if I want to try one (the nymphs supposedly taste nutty when cooked). I’ll let you know if I do.
Here are a few of the highlights from my cicada wanderings in our yard:
Periodical cicada nymph crawling along a twigNymph just starting to split out of its shell
Something you may notice on the exuviae (shed “skins”) of the nymphs are small white “strings”. These are the tracheal tubes, the “pipes” of the respiratory system of the insect. They run throughout the nymphs’ body and are connected to the outside via the spiracles (respiratory openings on the thorax and abdomen of insects). When the nymphs shed their exoskeleton, the tracheal linings are also shed.
Nymph as it emerges showing tracheal tube connectionsA close up of the tracheal tubes in an emerging cicada.A mass of periodical cicadas that emerged last weekendEmerged cicadas in two stages of wing expansion
According to one resource I read, the two large black spots you see in freshly emerged periodical cicadas contain pigment that will gradually spread throughout the cicada’s body as it hardens, transforming it from this ghostly white color to the final black form. Some have also speculated that the large spots may deter predators since they resemble large eyes, giving the impression of a much larger creature.
Another grouping showing fully emerged cicadas
It takes an hour or so for the wings to fully expand. The cicadas will go through a color transformation as well.
Adult transforming to final colorAdult periodical cicadas that have fully transformed into their final darker color
Looking at the timing in my photos from 2011, mating should be occurring this week with egg-laying by the week after. They will start dying shortly after that and hatchlings should drop out of the trees by late June. We will then need to be patient, as we won’t see them again until 2037! Hope i’m still around to enjoy the spectacle.
Coyotes have the gift of seldom being seen; they keep to the edge of vision and beyond…
~N. Scott Momaday
As you may have noticed in recent months, I have not written as many blogs as in the past. I will try to do better since there is a lot to share. I’m going to start with a quick recent event and then go back to follow up on some great experiences over the past few months including finishing up our trip to South Africa last November, a fantastic trip to Nebraska last month for birding adventures, a wonderful canoe camping trip on the Cashie River in eastern North Carolina, and some of the natural happenings here in our woods.
In all my years here in Chatham County, I have only seen one coyote on this property and that was many years ago, But our trail cameras pick them up frequently, though their appearances often come in spurts with a spate of regular captures and then nothing for weeks at a time. Information presented here on the biology of coyotes is from a summary of coyote management in our state from the NC Wildlife Resources Commission. Coyotes typically mate for life and breed from January to early March. Litters of 4 to 6 are born from March through May. Coyotes tend to be more active in these months.
I have shared several video clips of coyotes in past blogs. Most often, they are seen trotting along with a seeming purpose or destination in mind. Occasionally, we have seen one carrying something, but could not discern what it was, though we assume it was a food item or prey of some sort. Coyotes are omnivores, adapting their diets to local food availability. Diet studies show a range of food choices from deer (mostly fawns or scavenged carcasses), small rodents, rabbits and other mammals, birds, insects and vegetation. The will also take advantage of human-related food sources like pet food left outside, garbage, etc.
Though most video clips captured by the trail cameras show only a few seconds of a coyote(s) trotting through the scene, we occasionally get one that lingers. This recent coyote checks out something in the leaf litter, I can’t tell whether it got a small snack or just a sniff.
Most of the time, we see a single coyote or a pair. A few times we have seen three coyotes on a video clip. The clips are either 30 seconds for daytime videos or 20 seconds for nighttime (that is the maximum length for night recordings with these cameras). So, give the tendency of coyotes to trot through a scene and for them to be strung out in a line, we may miss some if they are traveling together. Coyotes will form packs, but they are usually made up of related individuals. A breeding pair of adults plus one or more juveniles from the previous year that have not dispersed. This past week, one camera caught 4 coyotes walking by, the first time that has been recorded here. Look closely at the first coyote, especially the first few frames of the clip. It is a lactating female…she has pups!
As I was looking closely at this clip to confirm she was a mother coyote, I noticed she has a deformed or mangled left ear. I have seen that same coyote on several other clips. It is clear to see her distinctive ear in this clip from last month.
I remembered seeing this coyote on a clip from May of last year and when I looked closely at that clip, she was lactating back then as well. It is much tougher to see in this clip, but a close examination shows she has teats distending from her belly.
Though I see frequent posts on local neighborhood list serves expressing fear and concern over the presence of coyotes, I am happy to have them as neighbors. I only hope they can help control the population of deer that have changed the forest structure here and in so many other locations. Plus, I hope it gives cat owners another reason to keep their cats indoors since outdoor cats are a major threat to bird populations (as well as all sorts of other living creatures). I wish ol’ one ear another successful breeding season.
The way I see it, if you want the rainbow, you gotta put up with the rain.
~Dolly Parton
Melissa and I traveled to Damascus, VA, yesterday for a funeral service for one of my aunts. It was a lovely tribute to a wonderful woman. Even though it is about a 4-hour drive, we decided to head back home after the funeral because it is a busy week ahead for us both. The weather was less than ideal for a long drive with heavy rains for much of the return trip. When I looked at the forecast earlier in the week and saw the prediction for warm temperatures and over an inch of rain at night, I knew we would probably have our first big salamander run of the season (a couple of weeks ago I found a few salamander spermatphores on the bottom of our wildlife pools after a good night-time rain).
So, as we approached our community, we slowed down to look for salamanders crossing the road. There is a small pool in the woods a couple of miles from our house that has always been a favored breeding spot for Marbled and Spotted Salamanders. Indeed, we saw several out in the road (that we stopped and helped cross safely), along with some dead ones that had been hit by cars
-A dead Spotted Salamander on the road near a breeding pond (click photos to enlarge)
We stopped a few times on the way in to get some more out of the road and finally got to our house. After getting some stuff out of the car, I went back out to one of our wildlife pools to see what might be happening here. It was a major breeding congress (I still chuckle every time I say that) in action!
I ran back in and got Melissa and we watched in awe for a few minutes and then decided to contact some friends that might want to come over to witness this spectacle. After texting several fellow nature nerds, we had one local teacher take us up on the offer.
We were going to meet her out at the spot a couple of miles from our house where we had seen the salamanders crossing the paved road in order to try to help more of the love-struck amphibians get safely across. The heavy rain had stopped, and that usually means the salamanders slow down their movements. But, on the way out the door we did find a large female on our moss/stone walkway, slowly headed to one of our pools.
-A Spotted Salamander on our walkway headed to a breeding pool in our yard
When we met up with our friend, we checked the large roadside pool and were surprised to not see any adults, though there were lots of Marbled Salamander larvae (that species breeds earlier in the Fall and these larvae will feast on the newly hatched Spotted Salamander larvae later this spring). Unfortunately we did find several more dead Spotted Salamanders in the road. There is a another pool across the road, but the water was so cloudy we couldn’t see anything. I did spot an Upland Chorus Frog headed to the pool to join the gang that was already filling the night air with their loud calls (their call sounds like the sound made by running your thumbnail across the teeth of a comb).
-An Upland Chorus Frog about the join a roadside pool that was full of calling frogs
Back at home, we all oohed and aahed at the salamander extravaganza. But, without the rain, the activity had slowed considerably. Interestingly, the ones in our pool with a waterfall were doing more of the swimming up and down to the water surface than those in the other pool. I wonder if the water droplets flung into the pool from the small waterfall may mimic rainfall enough to stimulate this behavior?
The next thing to watch for will be the females laying egg masses the next night or two (I will be out of town in two nights and may miss the bulk of this behavior). We really aren’t sure how many Spotted Salamanders are in our two small pools, but a fair guess is at least 25-30 in each. This amazing migration and congregation of these beautiful amphibians occurs on rainy nights from January through early March in fish-less pools throughout much of our state. It is always exciting to witness this abundance of wildness, especially when it is so close to home. As our friend Andy put it after Melissa sent him the text about the circumstance surrounding this particular event…”Nice to go from a celebration of life to another celebration of life”. I don’t think my aunt would have minded what some might think is an unusual comparison. She knew about our nature nerdiness, and she loved life and wanted others to enjoy it in all its glory.
I suppose I really don’t have to worry about this particular quote. I think I do a pretty good job of taking the time to do the things I enjoy. With Melissa leading a museum winter workshop in Yellowstone, I decided to get out and see a few wild things myself. By the way, if you haven’t followed her trip on the museum’s website, check it out at this link. It sounds like it has been one of the best trips ever (and certainly the coldest!).
So, last week I headed east for an overnight trip to visit four of our wildlife refuges – Pocosin Lakes, Mattamuskeet, Alligator River, and Pea Island. I first stopped by to chat with my friend, Wendy Stanton, refuge manager for Pocosin Lakes. We had a good conversation about visitor issues, closures, volunteer needs, and future plans. I also met two wonderful education/refuge staff that are being funded through the NC Wildlife Federation. They are providing programming at the refuge and the Red Wolf Center in Columbia, helping to manage volunteers, providing outreach programming in schools, and many other duties. It sounds like they have been a great addition to the limited staff at the refuge. After the meeting, I headed down to Alligator River NWR in hopes of seeing some bears, wolves, and birds. It turned out to be a very quiet wildlife day – lots of birds, but no mammals.
-A backlit adult Bald Eagle perched along Wildlife Drive at Alligator River NWR (click photos to enlarge)-The day ended with a spectacular sunset at the refuge
I spent the night in Kill Devil Hills and was out before sunrise, headed to Pea Island. After passing an American Bittern out along Hwy 12 at at the edge of a marsh (no room to safely stop), I stopped at the parking lot on the south end of the Oregon Inlet Bridge to see if there was anything happening there. A few dolphins were fishing the shallows and some Sanderlings were chasing each other around the exposed sandy beach, often coming within a few feet of where I stood.
-A Sanderling takes a short pause in its usual frantic pace to probe the sand in a puddle-A Willet posing in beautiful morning light
Driving down to the Pea Island Visitor Center, i was surprised to see relatively few birds on North Pond, but I hung out for a bit and managed a couple of captures.
-Pied-billed Grebe at Pea island NWR-A Great Egret flies by just after sunrise-A juvenile Bald Eagle flies directly overhead
I asked at the Visitor C=enter where I might see the huge flock of Redhead ducks and the Snow Buntings I had seen on social media posts recently. The ducks were no problem they told me but they had no idea where I could find the buntings. So, off I went and soon saw a solid raft of ducks not far off the highway. The flock stretched for a hundred yards or so and was so densely packed I couldn’t see how any others could land in there, but some still managed. It was amazing seeing such a large concentration of birds.
-A small portion of the huge flock of Redhead ducks at Pea Island NWR
I soon headed to Alligator River for one more pass through the refuge to see what I could see before heading in the direction of home. I scanned the large flocks of waterfowl in the flooded fields near the road and enjoyed some time with a flock of both Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs (I feel sorry for the ones named “Lesser”). One of the birds grabbed what looked like a huge grub and scurried off to gulp it down before others nearby could steal it.
-A Greater Yellowlegs in the marsh at Alligator River NWR
While I was watching the shorebirds, a Downy Woodpecker flew into a nearby sapling and began hammering away. I didn’t pay it much attention at first assuming it was looking for bugs in a dead branch. But then I looked with my binoculars and saw it was on a mantid egg case. I’ve seen the results of this feeding behavior many times but never had managed a photo of it, so I spent a few minutes watching and taking pics. After it finished with this one, the hungry bird moved to a nearby branch and started working on another egg case. If you zoom in on the bird’s beak, you can see a mantid baby stuck to the woodpecker’s maxilla (upper beak)
A Downy Woodpecker tearing into a Carolina Mantid egg case -Part of a huge flock of Pintails at Alligator River NWR
On the way home, I stopped at Mattamuskeet and the Pungo Unit without seeing too much other wildlife. I did see the Snow Geese finally leave Pungo Lake, but they flew off the refuge to the west. I also saw some more folks behind the closed area signs. I spoke with one group asking them to come back, but they ignored me. It is a tough balancing act to manage for the welfare of the wildlife and to allow people to experience the grandeur of the animals so that they will care for the birds and the place.
Two days after that coast trip, I joined a group of folks participating in the quarterly Jordan Lake eagle count. I wrote an article on the eagles that can be found at the B. Everett Jordan dam in winter for the upcoming February issue of Walter magazine. In my research, I contacted a ranger, Steve McMurray, about the eagles at Jordan Lake. He mentioned the quarterly count and invited me to join so, there I was, shivering a bit at 7 a.m., looking out over a vast expanse of the lake. We spotted 8 eagles in the allotted count time (1.5 hours) and I enjoyed meeting and talking with some fellow bird lovers. After the count, I drove over to the dam to see what was happening. When I walked down the trail along the tailrace, I counted 12 eagles on the opposite shoreline waiting their turn at a fish meal. A photographer walked down the opposite shore where all the eagles were perched and flushed the closest one. It flew across the channel and allowed me a few quick images before disappearing over the trees.
-A fl-by of an adult Bald Eagle at B. Everett Jordan dam on Jordan Lake
Two days later, at 5 a.m., I was driving back to Pungo with some good friends to enjoy some more wildlife watching. It was a slow morning but the lake was full of swans and their calls are one of the most beautiful natural sounds I know. After driving through the refuge, we hiked out to the Duck Pen Observation Blind. I had been out there recently and saw how the area around the blind had been damaged by bears and careless humans over the past couple of years. Even though vegetation has grown up around the blind, blocking much of the view, we had a nice look at some of the many Tundra Swans resting on the calm lake waters. The low angle light was really nice and we spent a lot of time looking and listening.
-Some Tundra Swans from the Duck Pen blind on a calm afternoon at Pungo Lake-Swan synchrony
After eating some lunch back at the road, we made a trip over to Mattamuskeet. A highlight was walking the boardwalk of the New Holland Trail that meanders through a picturesque cypress swamp.
-A vertical pano of the swamp forest along the New Holland Trail boardwalk at Mattamuskeet NWR
On our way out we stopped at the photo blind on the impoundment. This is really a nice little blind and the birds are pretty tolerant of your approach if you are quiet, move slowly, and use the surrounding trees as cover as you approach.
Our plan was to return to Pungo in hopes of seeing birds in the field or some fly-overs and then head home. When we arrived, we saw plenty of swans but they were all headed off the refuge to the west to feed with few visible at close range on any of accessible impoundments. I saw a friend hiking along the road and, as we were talking, a huge flock of Snow Geese lifted off the lake and flew directly over us. This group was much larger than what we saw a couple of weeks ago on the bird count. We all stared skyward, mesmerized by the sounds and undulating waves of birds.
Just as the last of the flock appeared, we heard the distinctive calls of Sandhill Cranes! I had looked for them on the bird count and my trip last week but they were nowhere to be found. And, as we approached sundown, twenty two of these amazing birds flew into view, circling over the fields before landing in the impoundment behind the trees. This is the largest group of sandhills I have seen on the refuge.
-At last, the Sandhill Cranes reveal themselves at Pungo! (with a portion of the flyover of thousands of Snow Geese above them)
After that extraordinary experience, we drove down to “Bear Road” and peered down the now closed road. After several minutes, we finally saw the small bear that has been coming out most evenings to feed. To close the day, a large group of blackbirds was swirling in a cloud of wings on the horizon.
-A murmuration of Red-winged Blackbirds at dusk
I think we all left with a happy soul after a wonderful day on some of North Carolina’s public lands. Thank you to all the people working tirelessly to help make these places so special for the wildlife and all of us.
~The slogan formerly found on the logo of Kruger National Park, South Africa
Last summer, a friend and former coworker, Andrew Torlage, asked me out for a beer to discuss an idea. Andrew was born in South Africa and moved to North Carolina less than a decade ago. He is starting a tour company (named Vakasha – which means to visit) where he hopes to share the beauty of his homeland with others. He was asking for some feedback on his plans and some assistance with getting together the inaugural group. Though not on my bucket list of places to travel anytime soon, Melissa and I jumped at the chance. So, in November, we headed to Johannesburg with a group of eight plus Andrew. The trip was sensational, full of natural beauty, extraordinary wildlife, cultural highlights, laughter with friends, and good food (and wine!). I’m going to put together a few of the many, many highlights in the next blog or two. It was truly quite a trip!
We flew on Delta in what is their longest flight (and the 13th longest flight of any commercial airline) – approximately 16 hours from Atlanta to Johannesburg. We stayed in a beautiful Airbnb in J’burg a full day and a half before meeting up with Andrew, our guide. The people, the city, the power of visiting Soweto and learning more about the incredible Nelson Mandela, made for an amazing beginning to our trip.
-A Gray Go-Away-Bird. It’s common name is based on its unusual call – a nasal “gwaay”. These were common at our Airbnb in Johannesburg
-Andrew picked us up in our transportation for the next several days and we were off
After getting ourselves and our gear into the van and trailer, we headed to Kruger National Park, our home for the next 4 days. We proved our nature nerdiness to everyone right away when we stopped at the entrance gate and discovered a dung beetle doing its thing. With screams of delight we gathered everyone around to witness the spectacle.
-Perhaps the most common prey animal for several of the park’s larger predators is the Impala (this one is a buck). Andrew told us the locals called this the “McDonald’s of the bush” due to the M-shape they all have on their rear and the fact they are on the menu of so many other animals. We preferred the “M&M animal” because when you saw one, you saw several.
-A Southern Ground Hornbill, the largest of the hornbills. This is a species of concern in Kruger, but we were lucky enough to see several.
-I’m used to bear jams in Yellowstone, but this is the scene at a Leopard jam in Kruger. You are not allowed to get out of a vehicle in Kruger so people jockey for position in their cars or safari vehicles. My position in our van did not allow me a pic without a stick blocking part of the animal’s face. But, that wasn’t the last one we saw that day…
-On our afternoon game drive with a ranger, we came across another traffic jam. An adjacent car said there was a Leopard lying in the grass next to the road. After several minutes of staring and moving around a bit in the safari vehicle (a large open bus) a woman next to me spotted it (this is all we could see). It amazed all of us that it was so hidden and only about 20 feet from us.
-Driving back toward our camp, we came across another Leopard (probably the same one we had seen earlier that had now moved across the road). Leopards are solitary animals and are expert stalkers. They use the element of surprise and their power to overcome prey. They spend the hotter parts of most days resting.
-We spent several minutes with this beautiful animal and it finally turned its face toward us for a few seconds, allowing this nice portrait. Leopards often carry their prey up a tree trunk and feast in relative safety from other predators such as Lions and Hyenas.
-While watching the Leopard, we spotted this Magpie Shrike perched in a nearby shrub. We saw several species of African birds that have extremely long tails. This may be an adaptation to mate choice (aerial displays) and/or the ability to perform abrupt maneuvers in flight for foraging.
-A bit later that day we drove back by the spot where the Leopard had been hiding in the grass and it was up and moving. It slowly began stalking a large herd of Impala on the other side of the road. The vehicles in the traffic jam gave cover to the approaching Leopard and we all braced for an exciting predator-prey moment. But as the big cat tried to cross the road, there were just too many people and cars and it apparently gave up the hunt and moved off the road and sat down.
-Each of the major camps in Kruger are surrounded by an electric fence and electrified cattle guard with a gate manned by a ranger to keep out the potentially dangerous animals like Leopards, Elephants, and Lions.
-A personal highlight was seeing the Giraffes. What amazing adaptations! They are the tallest land mammal on Earth with big males coming in at over 15 feet at the shoulder and able to reach leaves a full 24 feet above the ground. They can also tilt their heads vertically due to special bone articulations at the base of the skull and that, along with their height and long tongues (up to 18 inches) gives them extra reach for their feeding.
-You can identify males from females from a distance by looking at their “horns” (more accurately called ossicones). Male horns are usually bare at the tips from their head/neck butting for mating rights, whereas female horns have tufts of dark hair. I believe this one is a male.
-We soon saw a small herd of Elephants alongside the road. it was a mixed-age group including a few very young ones. More on these magnificent creatures in the next post.
-We visited a hide (we call the blinds) on a watering hole mid-day and saw a herd of impala and some birds. Suddenly, two huge White Rhinos ambled into view and the rest of the wildlife gave them a wide berth. Due to excessive poaching in recent years, park managers dart every rhinoceros in the park and cut off their horns, which are highly valued on the black market. I must admit to being saddened to not see the diagnostic horn but thankful if it helps keep these giant beasts alive. The horn continues to grow throughout the animals’ life so rangers must cut off the horns again every few years. The record length for a White Rhino horn was 5.1 feet! White Rhinos are the second largest land mammal on Earth (big males can weigh over 5000 pounds) and are part of the so-called “Big 5” of Africa (much sought-after by tourists ) – Elephants, Rhinos, Cape Buffalo, Lions, and Leopards. And we were lucky to observe all five on this trip!
-A diminutive Steenbok (standing only 20 inches at the shoulder) is one of the smallest antelope. The name is derived from the Afrikaans word, steen, which means brick – because of its color).
-Lions are Africa’s largest land carnivore (big males are between 400 and 500 pounds). They hunt cooperatively and can take down large prey from Giraffes to Cape Buffalo and Zebra (even Elephants). They spend much of their day resting as this group of 3 (one off-camera) was doing, sleeping right in the road. The rangers knew that this group had recently taken down a Cape Buffalo and were feeling well fed.
-A Lion wakes up as our big open safari van passes. I imagined it was thinking, “you know I could jump up there and take you guys if I wanted”. Hence the reason for not getting out of your vehicle in Kruger!
-On our way back to camp we stopped for a second to look at some wildlife and when it came time to crank up the safari van again, there was nothing. Turns out the very bumpy road had caused something to become disconnected in the wiring and it took some time to figure out the problem and get it fixed. We all cheered as the engine cranked (a lot of the predators were starting their nightly hunt) and we finally headed back. Along the way we enjoyed a spectacular Kruger sunset. The next post will highlight the remaining two days in Kruger and travel to our next destination.
We do not see nature with our eyes, but with our understandings and our hearts.
~William Hazlitt
And in some cases, we see nature with our trail cameras…
This season seems to have fewer large buck deer than I have seen the past few years, but recently, a beautiful 8-pointer kindly walked in front of one of our cameras. A week before, the same buck was caught on camera (those videos are not included here) trailing a doe that had been filmed running on the same route two minutes before the buck appeared. And just yesterday, while I was changing out the camera cards, this same buck was closely following a doe through the forest. The rut continues and some of the ladies just don’t seem all that interested
The other hot spot for activity in recent weeks has been the ‘possum hole at the base of a fallen tree. I’ve had a camera on this spot for a year now and have seen all sorts of animals coming and going including several different opossums, raccoons, deer, gray and flying squirrels, chipmunks, and a few species of birds. Once again, an opossum has been gathering leaves in its tail and carrying them into the hole. The camera recorded this activity 4 times in the past month. Below is one of those scenes…
A few days later, the camera recorded a raccoon stopping by the hole and peeking inside. Two hours after that, the camera saw a coyote at the entrance to the opossum den. When the coyote walks away, you can see that the hole entrance has been dug out a bit. I’m assuming this coyote did that, but it had to have been a very quick dig to not capture it on the video (there is a slight delay of just a second or two between the time the camera is triggered by motion and when it starts recording).
Five days later, a coyote visits the area 4 more times over a span of several minutes (here is the longest visit). The opossum has not been seen at the hole since the first coyote visit.
Cameras caught coyotes several more times in the past week (on one recording, two different coyotes pass by the camera in quick succession). Two nights ago, as we were lying in bed, we heard a cacophony of coyote yips very close to the back fence. So, yesterday, I changed out the camera cards again and was rewarded with three separate coyote videos, all at the same camera. The first was just of one trotting away from the camera at 7:11 a.m. At 7:45 a.m, the coyote below comes toward the camera carrying something.
We can’t quite tell what it has in its mouth even after cropping and slowing it down in the next video. Could it be part of a deer carcass? Let me know if you have any thoughts.
Unfortunately, the time of day that this occurred is the toughest time for the camera’s resolution. Near dawn and sunset, the cameras I have tend to struggle a bit with clarity compared to scenes in full daylight or darkness.
Nine minutes after the coyote trots by carrying what presumably is a hefty chunk of food, a second coyote wanders by the same camera, stops, and whimpers. Not sure what to make of that unless it is just feeling left out of a meal. I guess we can all relate when someone else at the table gets the last cookie.
Roads End Naturalist 